Sunday, 14 August 2011

Scent of sulphur

My plans were scuppered again. Didn't quite make it out on a wine tour in the end. I could have done the self-guided cycling tour but the weather was again a bit rubbish and I thought it probably wouldn't be much fun on my own. But I couldn't go on any bus tours as there was only little old me and no one else booked. So no go. Shame but I headed out in the car to Te Mata Peak (shrouded in cloud, been happening a lot with those peaks lately) though I managed a few sneaky shots of the view without too much fluffy stuff.

On the way down from the peak I stopped at Aratiki Honey and tested out all their different varieties, spent a while trying to spot the Queen Bee in some of the hives, and learnt a little bit more about bees than I did before. It was a way to while away half an hour. I then headed out to Cape Kidnappers where there are huge gannet colonies to be seen in summer. It was a bit late in the day so once I realised it was quite a big place with long walks and payment required I decided to turn back and return to Napier. But not before I'd driven along the muddy detour that ran alongside the original road that had all but disappeared into the sea. Was going to stop and take a piccy but someone was coming along in the other direction and there wasn't enough room for the both of us. Random though. Before too long the area will be completely impassable I would have thought.

Once back in Napier I parked the car and walked along to the Wine Centre to get what fix of vino I could. After assaulting my nostrils with lots of sample scents of wine bouquets (including the not so nice ones) it was more challenging to actually decipher the real thing. I say the real thing, in terms of the real wine anyway. Gulping down at least five different tipples I confirmed what I already knew, that I do love a good Malbec!

A nice English couple were also doing the tasting and very kindly invited me for a drink afterwards having engaged in some conversation at the centre. So we headed off to the local wine bar and got acquainted. It was nice to meet more people of my own age rather than too many backpackers in their 20s! Who knows, our paths may cross again in the South Island.

The company I booked the alpine crossing weren't going out again the following day so I hopped in the car and headed up to Lake Taupo instead. This time the better weather meant I could actually see the lake (I drove past it on my way to Napier) and take some photos. If you are ever visiting New Zealand, don't worry too much about organising any of your daily activities beforehand, the information centres are fabulous. They have so much information and can book it all up for you. So armed with some local maps I drove out to Huka Falls, a section of the Waikato River that forms a thunderous churning of froth and spray when it's squeezed into a narrow channel of rock. Lots of photo opportunities there.

Rather than do a jet boat tour on this bit of the river I decided to do a different one that was recommended by a couple of people at the Waitomo Caves. This was on the Arataki River, just below the dam. It was a great laugh, never been in a jet boat before and thought it would be a bit different to white water rafting. The rapids that you go down (and up again and again and again) weren't huge but the driver did loads of spins and zoomed along scarily close to trees and jetties. And drenched us all on the final rapid. We also saw the dam before the gates were opened and afterwards - what a difference a dam wall makes!

I fancied a night to myself for a change so booked myself into a little cabin on a campsite after driving up to Rotorua for the next action-packed section of my trip. Pretty basic but just me, myself and I which was exactly what I wanted. Had a little kitchenette and enjoyed a bit of peace and quiet cooking for myself rather than fighting over space in a backpacker-filled hostel kitchen.

This morning I headed to the thermal wonderland of Wao Tapu to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt like clockwork at 10.15am. This would be pretty remarkable if it weren't aided by some chemicals to make her blow. I did initially think it was bizarre for anything in nature to be so regimented! But it was pretty interesting nonetheless. I then wandered around the park snapping away at all the crazy landscapes that the volcanic activity has created. Luminous yellow/green pools, bright orange and green layers on surrounding fauna, champagne pools lined with the brightest orange tinge, steam rising from every orifice and bubbling hot water everywhere you look. All accompanied with the strong smell of sulphur catching the back of your throat, mmmmmm. Truly out of this world.

And then the heavens opened which altered my plans for a cycle round the local mountain bike forest. So I headed off to the Polynesian Spa for a nice massage and a relaxing hour in the steamy hot sulphuric pools (these ones that you could actually swim in). Bliss, this sulphur isn't half bad after all.

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