Feels like ages since I've posted online, I guess it's been a week but it feels like about three. We've strayed quite far and done so much it seems in such a short space of time. I feel like I'm overusing the words 'stunning', 'beautiful', 'awesome' etc but there really aren't enough words in my vocabulary to express it any better just how incredible the South Island is to explore. Where the North is quaint and pretty with rolling hills (as well as the occasional huge mountain), the South is much more rugged, on a grander scale and the scenery is more breathtaking.
We arrived in Queenstown this afternoon and have already fallen in love with the place. I could stay here a long time, spend a lot of money and do so much. But even to just sit and admire the awesome location from a cafe sipping tea/hot chocolate/wine/beer (edit as you see fit) would be enough for a couple of days. It is very much an adrenaline junkie town with the options of skiing, snowboarding, and the usual bungy jumping, skydiving, hang gliding, paragliding etc. But there's plenty for the more sedate with trips to the wineries, walking, mountain biking. I think I'm going to be hard pushed to decide between it all. But we've got four nights here, the longest I will have spent anywhere for a few weeks. I'm going to soak it all up and make the most of it (without bankrupting myself hopefully).
So what on earth have I been up to in the last week? Well, there's been sea kayaking in the Abel Tasman national park. It was a beautiful day and we saw several seals sunning themselves on the rocks as we paddled by a couple of islands. It wasn't too much hard work for a full day of kayaking as the sea was just mill-pond calm. And so clear you could see so far to the deep bottom. It was a pretty relaxing day just taking it at a nice slow pace and enjoying the sunshine. Got totally soaked though, perhaps I need a better technique with the paddling so as not to get seawater dripping all down your arms.
I've also spent the day hiking the Franz Josef Glacier, one of the top things on my list while I'm here. Never having done any ice hiking I was intrigued to see how tough it would be and how unique the ice formations would be. I wasn't disappointed. Photo-wise we could have done with a sunnier day to really distinguish between the sky and the ice but I managed to get some good shots of ice caves and lakes. It also helped to have a very fit guide (in more ways than one) from Alaska!
Other than that my days have been filled having a laugh with my new-found travelling companions and spending a lot of time getting from one place to another with several scenic stops in between. We seem to have themes for the day (unintentionally I think) of either lakes, waterfalls or mountains to stop and photograph when in need of a break to stretch our legs.
The great thing about travelling this way with such a great bunch of people is the ready-made social life in the evening, even if you're stuck in a dead-end town (like Greymouth) or in the middle of nowhere (like Makarora). We've stayed in some really nice places, accommodation wise, and then some not so. In Abel Tasman we were staying on a farm in little cabins that were really only suited to summer temperatures! Showering practically outdoors in the middle of winter isn't always my idea of fun though it toughens you up pretty quickly.
Greymouth was very much a man's town, probably because of all the mining going on there but it was strange to see most of the people walking round the hostel were middle-aged guys, a bit of a contrast to elsewhere on the backpacker trail.
We've had a pretty packed bus most of the way, despite buses either side of ours having much fewer numbers. Just the way it works I guess but despite the lack of space to put your stuff and not being able to stretch out it's not been a hindrance or annoyance at all. But the group is getting split up from now on which is a shame as people are spending different amounts of time here in Queenstown and then doing different passes round the rest of the island from here on in. So we've got a last night out together in the best party town in New Zealand. It could get messy!
Saturday, 27 August 2011
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Get into the groove
Location: Marlborough Sounds, South Island, New Zealand.
Weather: Sun, sun and more sun. Beautiful.
Stunning, stunning, stunning, awesome, breathtaking, a sight to behold. That's all I have to say.
Except that this girl has got her groove back!
Weather: Sun, sun and more sun. Beautiful.
Stunning, stunning, stunning, awesome, breathtaking, a sight to behold. That's all I have to say.
Except that this girl has got her groove back!
Friday, 19 August 2011
Windy welly
Not quite so windy today luckily but I can see why it has the nickname it does, as soon as I stepped outside the airport it was blowing a full-on gale. I am liking the city though, very smart and compact. It is very hilly so most of the residential areas are built up on the hillsides and the more affluent residents have their own mini cable cars to take them from their garages up to the main house - alright for some!
I've been here a couple of days now and have crammed in as much as possible in the short time that I've been here. Yesterday I went on a little bus tour of the city. It ended up being an exclusive ride as I was the only one on the hop-on, hop-off tour. I went to Katherine Mansfield's birthplace first, probably New Zealand's most famous author, part of the Bloomsbury set (she spent a lot of time in England). A very quaint little house that has been restored to how it could have been, based on photographs and descriptions in Mansfield's books and short stories for which she was famous.
I then headed off to Parliament for a free tour around the old and new buildings that house the nation's government. There are many similarities with Westminster, unsurprisingly given the country's colonial roots. The tour also included an insight into the building's state-of-the-art system of strengthening should another big earthquake strike the city. The base isolation system means that the whole building rests on over 400 rubber (among other materials) pillars rather than brick.
Today I continued my bus tour and took in the lookout point on top of Mount Victoria, a stunning view of most of the city and it's many hills and mountains; plus the Weta Cave, where the effects and sets for Lord of the Rings and many other major Hollywood films have been made. Amazing how many big budgets pics they've been involved with over the last few years. They have one of the four largest computer networks in the world, bigger than NASA (that one's for you Dad!).
As the weather cleared up nicely by lunchtime (it's been pretty gloomy and miserable since I arrived) I took the very quaint cable car above the CBD and then walked back down through the Botanical Gardens. I then finished off the afternoon by continuing my tour of Wellington's large museum, Te Papa, after a walk along the waterfront. I started the tour the evening that I arrived as they had a late opening but it's so vast that you need at least a couple of visits to do it justice.
I am thoroughly enjoying my travels again after my dip at the beginning of the week, helped by finally having a proper night out after what seems like a lot of staying in. I accosted an English girl called Charly in the kitchens last night and started what seemed like an awkward conversation at first as I couldn't think of an organic opener. A few months ago I probably would have bottled it but slightly desperate for some proper conversation and the possibility of socialising with a like-minded person won out over any embarassment. So we chatted over a bottle of wine and then headed out to meet some friends that she'd made on the same bus tour that I'm due to embark on after the weekend. So I'm really looking forward to hopefully making some more new friends over the coming weeks. 'Bout time too!
Looks like I might get a proper weekend by going out with her and another friend tonight too. It's a proper student lifestyle with limited funds of having a few drinks before going out late. Oh how things have regressed but it's all worth it (most of the time).
Getting the ferry across the Cook Strait tomorrow to arrive in Picton for the start of my South Island tour on Monday. Hoping I can fit in a nice walk somewhere tomorrow. It's an early start though so I'd better behave myself tonight. Don't want another boat trip of seasick suffering...
I've been here a couple of days now and have crammed in as much as possible in the short time that I've been here. Yesterday I went on a little bus tour of the city. It ended up being an exclusive ride as I was the only one on the hop-on, hop-off tour. I went to Katherine Mansfield's birthplace first, probably New Zealand's most famous author, part of the Bloomsbury set (she spent a lot of time in England). A very quaint little house that has been restored to how it could have been, based on photographs and descriptions in Mansfield's books and short stories for which she was famous.
I then headed off to Parliament for a free tour around the old and new buildings that house the nation's government. There are many similarities with Westminster, unsurprisingly given the country's colonial roots. The tour also included an insight into the building's state-of-the-art system of strengthening should another big earthquake strike the city. The base isolation system means that the whole building rests on over 400 rubber (among other materials) pillars rather than brick.
Today I continued my bus tour and took in the lookout point on top of Mount Victoria, a stunning view of most of the city and it's many hills and mountains; plus the Weta Cave, where the effects and sets for Lord of the Rings and many other major Hollywood films have been made. Amazing how many big budgets pics they've been involved with over the last few years. They have one of the four largest computer networks in the world, bigger than NASA (that one's for you Dad!).
As the weather cleared up nicely by lunchtime (it's been pretty gloomy and miserable since I arrived) I took the very quaint cable car above the CBD and then walked back down through the Botanical Gardens. I then finished off the afternoon by continuing my tour of Wellington's large museum, Te Papa, after a walk along the waterfront. I started the tour the evening that I arrived as they had a late opening but it's so vast that you need at least a couple of visits to do it justice.
I am thoroughly enjoying my travels again after my dip at the beginning of the week, helped by finally having a proper night out after what seems like a lot of staying in. I accosted an English girl called Charly in the kitchens last night and started what seemed like an awkward conversation at first as I couldn't think of an organic opener. A few months ago I probably would have bottled it but slightly desperate for some proper conversation and the possibility of socialising with a like-minded person won out over any embarassment. So we chatted over a bottle of wine and then headed out to meet some friends that she'd made on the same bus tour that I'm due to embark on after the weekend. So I'm really looking forward to hopefully making some more new friends over the coming weeks. 'Bout time too!
Looks like I might get a proper weekend by going out with her and another friend tonight too. It's a proper student lifestyle with limited funds of having a few drinks before going out late. Oh how things have regressed but it's all worth it (most of the time).
Getting the ferry across the Cook Strait tomorrow to arrive in Picton for the start of my South Island tour on Monday. Hoping I can fit in a nice walk somewhere tomorrow. It's an early start though so I'd better behave myself tonight. Don't want another boat trip of seasick suffering...
Wednesday, 17 August 2011
Scuppered by the snow
News may have reached you all halfway across the world that New Zealand is in the grip of the coldest winter for 80 years and Auckland even had the coldest day on record a few days ago. Yes, aren't I lucky to be here in such wintery temperatures!! Actually it isn't that bad to be honest, up here in the North Island it isn't as cold as it would be for snow in England. That seems weird but I've been far colder all trussed up walking to work in London when we've had the heavy snow over the past couple of years than I am over here.
But it does mean that plans have to be a little fluid at the moment to tie in with whatever the weather is doing. Mountain biking take two was scuppered yet again, this time because of the snow and ice rather than the rain the day before. Really wanted to get back out on the bike and test out the NZ tracks but t'was not to be. I also cancelled the white water rafting that I'd booked as I really didn't fancy being frozen to the bone in an icy river. Wimping out again I know. The guy on the phone tried to persuade me that 20 people were out on the river as we spoke but I wasn't buying it.
Instead I headed off for my first sighting of a native kiwi (not the human kind but the real avian variety). At Rainbow Springs wildlife park they had a kiwi encounter that took you through the hatching process and then you got to see three resident birds in the sanctuary. You would not believe how huge their eggs are compared to the size of the bird, poor things. But the females get to do a runner straight after they've hatched and the males have to do all the hard work after that. If only that translated into human life I can think of a few female friends that might be happier!
I then drove through the stunning countryside yet again to reach the Hobbiton movie set for a tour of the little hobbit houses from Lord of the Rings on my way to Tauranga, my home for the night. It was great fun getting the tour of the land, if a little chilly out in the icy wind. First the tour guide had to get rid of a couple of errant sheep who'd infiltrated the set. Now I'm sworn to secrecy on the details having signed a confidentiality agreement but I have seen some new sets for the upcoming Hobbit film, which they haven't started filming yet. There were lots of warnings about not ruining or touching anything otherwise the whole operation might be shut down. But we all behaved ourselves, took lots of pictures and then went on our merry way.
I was feeling pretty knackered with a massive headache by the time I got to my hostel for the night. This wasn't helped by the unfriendly atmosphere in the place and the inhabitants all seemed a bit strange. So it wasn't a great night, especially when the water was off in the morning and I couldn't even have a shower. Was feeling a bit low and fed up with crap hostels and being a bit lonely on the road. However, just when you are feeling like that you then rock up to another place and it's completely the opposite.
After breakfast I headed off to climb Mount Maunganui. Everywhere you go there seems to be some kind of mountain or lookout point to climb. All those volcanoes! But it was a beautiful view and I had to shed far too many layers as it was actually pretty warm in contrast to the previous day. I seem to have totally lost my fitness levels since all that cycling and walking in Asia, much to my chagrin. I huffed and puffed my way up the steep tracks but it was worth it for the view. And I felt so much better after that so I definitely need to get off my backside and do more exercise from now on. Got too used to zooming around in my little car and being too inactive.
A two-hour drive, far too many windy roads making me a bit sick and several cheesy songs on my ipod and I arrived at my final road trip destination for now, Witianga. A very cute little hostel overlooking the beach, pretty quiet but with some nice people in contrast to the night before. I then received some fabulous news from home, which made me feel a very long way away and I just wanted to hug everyone in sight. Let's just say a best friend now has a big sparkler on her finger. I settled for a glass of wine to celebrate and a bit of tv, one of the first times I've really watched it since I've been here. An hour or so later and my roommate and I were having to switch rooms as our doorknob was knackered and we were in danger of getting stuck in or out as the door wouldn't open. As luck would have it we got moved to our own little unit so we had a room each and a bit of peace and quiet. Result!
I was feeling all wistful and emotional after the good news so I told my roomie I was going for a walk on the beach in the moonlight. She decided to join me so we had a good chat in the moonshine, it was so bright and just looked beautiful reflecting off the water.
A solid night's sleep later and it was time to pack up the car again and head back down the coast for the most stunning walk to Cathedral Cove. The weather was pretty mild and sunny again so I was shedding the layers as I went, despite being all wrapped up only that morning as I set off. Can't keep up with the weather changes. The cove really was spectacular with gleaming white sand, sparkling blue and very clear sea and more interesting rock formations to photograph and gawp over.
That afternoon I picked up my roommate from another hostel that she'd moved on to and we set off for Hot Water Beach. You rent a spade from the local cafe and at low tide set off up the beach to find the scorching hot water under the sand. The most bizarre thing to dig a big hole, get your bikini on in the middle of winter and sit soaking up the thermal springs next to the cold and uninviting sea. It was getting pretty busy by the time we left but it was time to head off in the car back to Auckland.
Another couple of hours later and I was back at my usual hostel here in the city. Big mistake coming back here in a way! I should have stayed somewhere near the city and saved myself the hassle of no more dorm rooms left and driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space somewhere before returning the car tomorrow morning. Lord knows how much the car park I eventually found in sheer desperation is going to cost me. I'll have to worry about that tomorrow. Got some packing and minimising of baggage to do before I catch a flight to Wellington tomorrow (weather permitting). That's all for now folks...
But it does mean that plans have to be a little fluid at the moment to tie in with whatever the weather is doing. Mountain biking take two was scuppered yet again, this time because of the snow and ice rather than the rain the day before. Really wanted to get back out on the bike and test out the NZ tracks but t'was not to be. I also cancelled the white water rafting that I'd booked as I really didn't fancy being frozen to the bone in an icy river. Wimping out again I know. The guy on the phone tried to persuade me that 20 people were out on the river as we spoke but I wasn't buying it.
Instead I headed off for my first sighting of a native kiwi (not the human kind but the real avian variety). At Rainbow Springs wildlife park they had a kiwi encounter that took you through the hatching process and then you got to see three resident birds in the sanctuary. You would not believe how huge their eggs are compared to the size of the bird, poor things. But the females get to do a runner straight after they've hatched and the males have to do all the hard work after that. If only that translated into human life I can think of a few female friends that might be happier!
I then drove through the stunning countryside yet again to reach the Hobbiton movie set for a tour of the little hobbit houses from Lord of the Rings on my way to Tauranga, my home for the night. It was great fun getting the tour of the land, if a little chilly out in the icy wind. First the tour guide had to get rid of a couple of errant sheep who'd infiltrated the set. Now I'm sworn to secrecy on the details having signed a confidentiality agreement but I have seen some new sets for the upcoming Hobbit film, which they haven't started filming yet. There were lots of warnings about not ruining or touching anything otherwise the whole operation might be shut down. But we all behaved ourselves, took lots of pictures and then went on our merry way.
I was feeling pretty knackered with a massive headache by the time I got to my hostel for the night. This wasn't helped by the unfriendly atmosphere in the place and the inhabitants all seemed a bit strange. So it wasn't a great night, especially when the water was off in the morning and I couldn't even have a shower. Was feeling a bit low and fed up with crap hostels and being a bit lonely on the road. However, just when you are feeling like that you then rock up to another place and it's completely the opposite.
After breakfast I headed off to climb Mount Maunganui. Everywhere you go there seems to be some kind of mountain or lookout point to climb. All those volcanoes! But it was a beautiful view and I had to shed far too many layers as it was actually pretty warm in contrast to the previous day. I seem to have totally lost my fitness levels since all that cycling and walking in Asia, much to my chagrin. I huffed and puffed my way up the steep tracks but it was worth it for the view. And I felt so much better after that so I definitely need to get off my backside and do more exercise from now on. Got too used to zooming around in my little car and being too inactive.
A two-hour drive, far too many windy roads making me a bit sick and several cheesy songs on my ipod and I arrived at my final road trip destination for now, Witianga. A very cute little hostel overlooking the beach, pretty quiet but with some nice people in contrast to the night before. I then received some fabulous news from home, which made me feel a very long way away and I just wanted to hug everyone in sight. Let's just say a best friend now has a big sparkler on her finger. I settled for a glass of wine to celebrate and a bit of tv, one of the first times I've really watched it since I've been here. An hour or so later and my roommate and I were having to switch rooms as our doorknob was knackered and we were in danger of getting stuck in or out as the door wouldn't open. As luck would have it we got moved to our own little unit so we had a room each and a bit of peace and quiet. Result!
I was feeling all wistful and emotional after the good news so I told my roomie I was going for a walk on the beach in the moonlight. She decided to join me so we had a good chat in the moonshine, it was so bright and just looked beautiful reflecting off the water.
A solid night's sleep later and it was time to pack up the car again and head back down the coast for the most stunning walk to Cathedral Cove. The weather was pretty mild and sunny again so I was shedding the layers as I went, despite being all wrapped up only that morning as I set off. Can't keep up with the weather changes. The cove really was spectacular with gleaming white sand, sparkling blue and very clear sea and more interesting rock formations to photograph and gawp over.
That afternoon I picked up my roommate from another hostel that she'd moved on to and we set off for Hot Water Beach. You rent a spade from the local cafe and at low tide set off up the beach to find the scorching hot water under the sand. The most bizarre thing to dig a big hole, get your bikini on in the middle of winter and sit soaking up the thermal springs next to the cold and uninviting sea. It was getting pretty busy by the time we left but it was time to head off in the car back to Auckland.
Another couple of hours later and I was back at my usual hostel here in the city. Big mistake coming back here in a way! I should have stayed somewhere near the city and saved myself the hassle of no more dorm rooms left and driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space somewhere before returning the car tomorrow morning. Lord knows how much the car park I eventually found in sheer desperation is going to cost me. I'll have to worry about that tomorrow. Got some packing and minimising of baggage to do before I catch a flight to Wellington tomorrow (weather permitting). That's all for now folks...
Sunday, 14 August 2011
Scent of sulphur
My plans were scuppered again. Didn't quite make it out on a wine tour in the end. I could have done the self-guided cycling tour but the weather was again a bit rubbish and I thought it probably wouldn't be much fun on my own. But I couldn't go on any bus tours as there was only little old me and no one else booked. So no go. Shame but I headed out in the car to Te Mata Peak (shrouded in cloud, been happening a lot with those peaks lately) though I managed a few sneaky shots of the view without too much fluffy stuff.
On the way down from the peak I stopped at Aratiki Honey and tested out all their different varieties, spent a while trying to spot the Queen Bee in some of the hives, and learnt a little bit more about bees than I did before. It was a way to while away half an hour. I then headed out to Cape Kidnappers where there are huge gannet colonies to be seen in summer. It was a bit late in the day so once I realised it was quite a big place with long walks and payment required I decided to turn back and return to Napier. But not before I'd driven along the muddy detour that ran alongside the original road that had all but disappeared into the sea. Was going to stop and take a piccy but someone was coming along in the other direction and there wasn't enough room for the both of us. Random though. Before too long the area will be completely impassable I would have thought.
Once back in Napier I parked the car and walked along to the Wine Centre to get what fix of vino I could. After assaulting my nostrils with lots of sample scents of wine bouquets (including the not so nice ones) it was more challenging to actually decipher the real thing. I say the real thing, in terms of the real wine anyway. Gulping down at least five different tipples I confirmed what I already knew, that I do love a good Malbec!
A nice English couple were also doing the tasting and very kindly invited me for a drink afterwards having engaged in some conversation at the centre. So we headed off to the local wine bar and got acquainted. It was nice to meet more people of my own age rather than too many backpackers in their 20s! Who knows, our paths may cross again in the South Island.
The company I booked the alpine crossing weren't going out again the following day so I hopped in the car and headed up to Lake Taupo instead. This time the better weather meant I could actually see the lake (I drove past it on my way to Napier) and take some photos. If you are ever visiting New Zealand, don't worry too much about organising any of your daily activities beforehand, the information centres are fabulous. They have so much information and can book it all up for you. So armed with some local maps I drove out to Huka Falls, a section of the Waikato River that forms a thunderous churning of froth and spray when it's squeezed into a narrow channel of rock. Lots of photo opportunities there.
Rather than do a jet boat tour on this bit of the river I decided to do a different one that was recommended by a couple of people at the Waitomo Caves. This was on the Arataki River, just below the dam. It was a great laugh, never been in a jet boat before and thought it would be a bit different to white water rafting. The rapids that you go down (and up again and again and again) weren't huge but the driver did loads of spins and zoomed along scarily close to trees and jetties. And drenched us all on the final rapid. We also saw the dam before the gates were opened and afterwards - what a difference a dam wall makes!
I fancied a night to myself for a change so booked myself into a little cabin on a campsite after driving up to Rotorua for the next action-packed section of my trip. Pretty basic but just me, myself and I which was exactly what I wanted. Had a little kitchenette and enjoyed a bit of peace and quiet cooking for myself rather than fighting over space in a backpacker-filled hostel kitchen.
This morning I headed to the thermal wonderland of Wao Tapu to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt like clockwork at 10.15am. This would be pretty remarkable if it weren't aided by some chemicals to make her blow. I did initially think it was bizarre for anything in nature to be so regimented! But it was pretty interesting nonetheless. I then wandered around the park snapping away at all the crazy landscapes that the volcanic activity has created. Luminous yellow/green pools, bright orange and green layers on surrounding fauna, champagne pools lined with the brightest orange tinge, steam rising from every orifice and bubbling hot water everywhere you look. All accompanied with the strong smell of sulphur catching the back of your throat, mmmmmm. Truly out of this world.
And then the heavens opened which altered my plans for a cycle round the local mountain bike forest. So I headed off to the Polynesian Spa for a nice massage and a relaxing hour in the steamy hot sulphuric pools (these ones that you could actually swim in). Bliss, this sulphur isn't half bad after all.
On the way down from the peak I stopped at Aratiki Honey and tested out all their different varieties, spent a while trying to spot the Queen Bee in some of the hives, and learnt a little bit more about bees than I did before. It was a way to while away half an hour. I then headed out to Cape Kidnappers where there are huge gannet colonies to be seen in summer. It was a bit late in the day so once I realised it was quite a big place with long walks and payment required I decided to turn back and return to Napier. But not before I'd driven along the muddy detour that ran alongside the original road that had all but disappeared into the sea. Was going to stop and take a piccy but someone was coming along in the other direction and there wasn't enough room for the both of us. Random though. Before too long the area will be completely impassable I would have thought.
Once back in Napier I parked the car and walked along to the Wine Centre to get what fix of vino I could. After assaulting my nostrils with lots of sample scents of wine bouquets (including the not so nice ones) it was more challenging to actually decipher the real thing. I say the real thing, in terms of the real wine anyway. Gulping down at least five different tipples I confirmed what I already knew, that I do love a good Malbec!
A nice English couple were also doing the tasting and very kindly invited me for a drink afterwards having engaged in some conversation at the centre. So we headed off to the local wine bar and got acquainted. It was nice to meet more people of my own age rather than too many backpackers in their 20s! Who knows, our paths may cross again in the South Island.
The company I booked the alpine crossing weren't going out again the following day so I hopped in the car and headed up to Lake Taupo instead. This time the better weather meant I could actually see the lake (I drove past it on my way to Napier) and take some photos. If you are ever visiting New Zealand, don't worry too much about organising any of your daily activities beforehand, the information centres are fabulous. They have so much information and can book it all up for you. So armed with some local maps I drove out to Huka Falls, a section of the Waikato River that forms a thunderous churning of froth and spray when it's squeezed into a narrow channel of rock. Lots of photo opportunities there.
Rather than do a jet boat tour on this bit of the river I decided to do a different one that was recommended by a couple of people at the Waitomo Caves. This was on the Arataki River, just below the dam. It was a great laugh, never been in a jet boat before and thought it would be a bit different to white water rafting. The rapids that you go down (and up again and again and again) weren't huge but the driver did loads of spins and zoomed along scarily close to trees and jetties. And drenched us all on the final rapid. We also saw the dam before the gates were opened and afterwards - what a difference a dam wall makes!
I fancied a night to myself for a change so booked myself into a little cabin on a campsite after driving up to Rotorua for the next action-packed section of my trip. Pretty basic but just me, myself and I which was exactly what I wanted. Had a little kitchenette and enjoyed a bit of peace and quiet cooking for myself rather than fighting over space in a backpacker-filled hostel kitchen.
This morning I headed to the thermal wonderland of Wao Tapu to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt like clockwork at 10.15am. This would be pretty remarkable if it weren't aided by some chemicals to make her blow. I did initially think it was bizarre for anything in nature to be so regimented! But it was pretty interesting nonetheless. I then wandered around the park snapping away at all the crazy landscapes that the volcanic activity has created. Luminous yellow/green pools, bright orange and green layers on surrounding fauna, champagne pools lined with the brightest orange tinge, steam rising from every orifice and bubbling hot water everywhere you look. All accompanied with the strong smell of sulphur catching the back of your throat, mmmmmm. Truly out of this world.
And then the heavens opened which altered my plans for a cycle round the local mountain bike forest. So I headed off to the Polynesian Spa for a nice massage and a relaxing hour in the steamy hot sulphuric pools (these ones that you could actually swim in). Bliss, this sulphur isn't half bad after all.
Thursday, 11 August 2011
Littlest hobo
Driving in my car along all these windy roads in the wilds of New Zealand I keep coming back to the lyrics of that marvellous kids tv programme the Littlest Hobo. You remember, where the dog makes friends with a new person or family each episode. I googled the lyrics and think it sums things up quite aptly:
"There's a voice that keeps on calling me
Down the road, that's where I'll always be.
Every stop I make, I make a new friend,
Can't stay for long, just turn around and I'm gone again
Maybe tomorrow, I'll want to settle down,
Until tomorrow, I'll just keep moving on.
Down this road that never seems to end,
Where new adventure lies just around the bend.
So if you want to drive me for a while,
Just grab your hat, come travel light, that's hobo style."
It's been in my head for a few days now. Used to love it as a kid. I wouldn't necessarily say I make a new friend everywhere I go but you certainly get chatting to lots of random people about inane things and then you're off again, somewhere new. I do crave a conversation with someone who knows me well that I don't have to make an effort with or explain myself to though sometimes!
Did I say in my last post how much I love staying in surfing towns? They have such a laid-back, chilled out vibe and the hostels are always great with lots of things free or provided if you ask (in Raglan they had free mountain bikes, kayaks, surf boards etc). Plus lots of kitchen bits and pieces so long as you shared what you made. I just love that level of trust, hard to come by in some of these hostels where they charge a deposit for your key, blanket, and kitchen stuff in some really rubbish places. I think that's going a step too far not providing basic kitchen stuff on trust.
I moved on yesterday from Raglan after going for a beautiful walk in the sunshine along the surf beach. Took lots of pictures and clambered over the rocks before turning back and watching the planes taking off from the little local airport and flying low over the statuesque Mount Karioi. I was going to head off on another walk but after two or so hours of walking along the volcanic sand I was a bit knackered and settled for a drive in the car to another surf beach and a local scenic reserve instead. Had a quiet night chilling out.
Shared a room with an interesting kiwi girl, an ornithologist who was in the area to assess the impact of the local windfarm on the bird population. Fascinating who you meet on your travels. After being spoilt rotten with fancy hotels paid for by the companies I've worked for it's hard to imagine being put up in a hostel by your job, expected to share with a stranger and get up for work the next day. But I guess things are a bit different over here.
Next stop was the Waitomo Caves, a two-hour drive from Raglan. Black water rafting is pretty different from the white water variety, mainly because your in the depths of huge caves, it's mostly pitch black and there aren't many rapids. But it was an awesomely incredible experience. Famed for its glow worms in the local vicinity it was a truly spectacular experience to drift along in your little tube with only the glow worms lighting our way in the caves. Surreal, fantastical and almost felt out of this world, like I was transported into a superman film, the walls flecked with kryptonite or something. After getting a bit claustrophic in the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam I was surprised that I didn't mind one bit squeezing myself into the smallest of passages to explore the black labyrinth of caves that gave the tour its name.
Another long drive later and I arrived at the National Park in the centre of the North Island in the dark. I had no idea what my surroundings looked like and things were no different this morning as the area was cloaked in a huge veil of thick cloud. Which scuppered my plans to do the famous Tongariro alpine crossing, one of the best one-day walks in NZ, if not the world. I could have gone but as I've got time and no fixed plans I've amended my non-existent itinerary (just a rough idea in my head of what I want to do) and will return over the weekend to (hopefully) better weather.
So I'm now in Napier, on the East coast, and have indulged in an afternoon of art deco architecture with a guided walk by the local art deco centre. I think I'll appreciate it more tomorrow when I've had a good night's sleep, a hearty breakfast and haven't driven three hours. It was a good walk and interesting information but I was so thirsty and hungry with not much time to satiate myself before embarking on the walk that I was a little grumpy by the time we got underway!
It is a fascinating story of the town full of pastel-coloured wonders, if you like that style of architecture (I wholeheartedly do). Raised to the ground by a fiersome earthquake in 1931 it was rebuilt in the style of the day from scratch. What's even more remarkable is the difference in land mass before and after the earthquake. Originally most of the area surrounding the small town was swamp and sea. But the 'quake raised the level of the land by two metres and created an extra 4,000 hectares on which to rebuild the new city. It's pretty unique in many ways but that is quite phenomenal.
Hopefully tomorrow will bring some better weather and I can either head off on a self-guided cycling tour of the Hawke's Bay wineries or a bus tour to join some other folk and sample those smashing grapes.
"There's a voice that keeps on calling me
Down the road, that's where I'll always be.
Every stop I make, I make a new friend,
Can't stay for long, just turn around and I'm gone again
Maybe tomorrow, I'll want to settle down,
Until tomorrow, I'll just keep moving on.
Down this road that never seems to end,
Where new adventure lies just around the bend.
So if you want to drive me for a while,
Just grab your hat, come travel light, that's hobo style."
It's been in my head for a few days now. Used to love it as a kid. I wouldn't necessarily say I make a new friend everywhere I go but you certainly get chatting to lots of random people about inane things and then you're off again, somewhere new. I do crave a conversation with someone who knows me well that I don't have to make an effort with or explain myself to though sometimes!
Did I say in my last post how much I love staying in surfing towns? They have such a laid-back, chilled out vibe and the hostels are always great with lots of things free or provided if you ask (in Raglan they had free mountain bikes, kayaks, surf boards etc). Plus lots of kitchen bits and pieces so long as you shared what you made. I just love that level of trust, hard to come by in some of these hostels where they charge a deposit for your key, blanket, and kitchen stuff in some really rubbish places. I think that's going a step too far not providing basic kitchen stuff on trust.
I moved on yesterday from Raglan after going for a beautiful walk in the sunshine along the surf beach. Took lots of pictures and clambered over the rocks before turning back and watching the planes taking off from the little local airport and flying low over the statuesque Mount Karioi. I was going to head off on another walk but after two or so hours of walking along the volcanic sand I was a bit knackered and settled for a drive in the car to another surf beach and a local scenic reserve instead. Had a quiet night chilling out.
Shared a room with an interesting kiwi girl, an ornithologist who was in the area to assess the impact of the local windfarm on the bird population. Fascinating who you meet on your travels. After being spoilt rotten with fancy hotels paid for by the companies I've worked for it's hard to imagine being put up in a hostel by your job, expected to share with a stranger and get up for work the next day. But I guess things are a bit different over here.
Next stop was the Waitomo Caves, a two-hour drive from Raglan. Black water rafting is pretty different from the white water variety, mainly because your in the depths of huge caves, it's mostly pitch black and there aren't many rapids. But it was an awesomely incredible experience. Famed for its glow worms in the local vicinity it was a truly spectacular experience to drift along in your little tube with only the glow worms lighting our way in the caves. Surreal, fantastical and almost felt out of this world, like I was transported into a superman film, the walls flecked with kryptonite or something. After getting a bit claustrophic in the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam I was surprised that I didn't mind one bit squeezing myself into the smallest of passages to explore the black labyrinth of caves that gave the tour its name.
Another long drive later and I arrived at the National Park in the centre of the North Island in the dark. I had no idea what my surroundings looked like and things were no different this morning as the area was cloaked in a huge veil of thick cloud. Which scuppered my plans to do the famous Tongariro alpine crossing, one of the best one-day walks in NZ, if not the world. I could have gone but as I've got time and no fixed plans I've amended my non-existent itinerary (just a rough idea in my head of what I want to do) and will return over the weekend to (hopefully) better weather.
So I'm now in Napier, on the East coast, and have indulged in an afternoon of art deco architecture with a guided walk by the local art deco centre. I think I'll appreciate it more tomorrow when I've had a good night's sleep, a hearty breakfast and haven't driven three hours. It was a good walk and interesting information but I was so thirsty and hungry with not much time to satiate myself before embarking on the walk that I was a little grumpy by the time we got underway!
It is a fascinating story of the town full of pastel-coloured wonders, if you like that style of architecture (I wholeheartedly do). Raised to the ground by a fiersome earthquake in 1931 it was rebuilt in the style of the day from scratch. What's even more remarkable is the difference in land mass before and after the earthquake. Originally most of the area surrounding the small town was swamp and sea. But the 'quake raised the level of the land by two metres and created an extra 4,000 hectares on which to rebuild the new city. It's pretty unique in many ways but that is quite phenomenal.
Hopefully tomorrow will bring some better weather and I can either head off on a self-guided cycling tour of the Hawke's Bay wineries or a bus tour to join some other folk and sample those smashing grapes.
Monday, 8 August 2011
A German invasion
It was good to get out of Auckland and start to explore the wonder that is the landscape of New Zealand. It really is stunning. And it reminds me of England a lot, or rather the rolling hills of Wales. Lots of sheep and cows everywhere and just luminous green fields. (It really is a misconception these days that NZ is full of sheep, it isn't, it's full of cows - every different type that you could possibly imagine!)
There were only two others on the bus trip with me, both German, though not together. A very sweet girl who is over here before starting university at the end of the Summer, and a trainee lawyer on internship in Auckland for three months. I think there are more Germans travelling here than any other nation. It got to the point where we were laughing every time we heard another German accent.
It was nice to have a small group and not have to make too much effort getting to know the masses. Our tour guide was a nice guy too and took us to some interesting places on the way up to the Bay of Islands. We experienced our first Kauri tree for a bit of tree hugging, though you'd have to have arms several feet long to get all the way round the trunk, they're huge. We also stopped in a small town whose name I can't remember (Mauri names seem to stay in my brain for about half an hour and then I've forgotten them completely) for some Gaudi-esque architecture by an Austrian architect called Hundertwasser (I just had to Google it as I couldn't remember that either - the town is called Kawakawa). He designed some very way out public toilets.
When we got to Paihia, where we were staying for the next two days, we found out we couldn't do the dolphin watching trip planned as there weren't enough of us but we'd get a second chance on the Sunday instead before we left. So headed off on the ferry across the bay to Russell, the first capital of New Zealand. A very pretty little town with the oldest public bar, church and many other buildings as the first settlers arrived in these parts. Had a nice pint of Mac's Gold lager in front of the fire in the hotel bar, I'd really been missing a good old pub so that fulfilled that desire for a while.
After we returned on the ferry we headed to Hurauru Falls, a brisk walk through the forest and mangroves as the sun was going down. The lady at the hostel had played it down saying it wasn't anything special so we were suitably impressed with the thunderous river and rainbows created by the spray when we arrived. We didn't want to chance heading back through the forest in the dark so headed back along the road, a bit of a hairy trip with no pavements and fast cars but we made it after a hard slog up many hills.
That night we relaxed in the hot tub and devoured the bargainous BBQ on offer at the hostel before heading to a couple of pubs. Played Michael at pool and whipped his arse, surprisingly, as I haven't played in so long I can't even remember. There was even mention of it being just like Wembley all those years ago, beating the Germans (though not by me I hasten to add)!
Another early start the next day and we joined a larger party on different tours to head up to the furthest point in the North, Cape Reinga. The bus drove along 90-mile beach, we even saw a little seal pup making his way back into the sea, as well as a few vehicular casualties along the way. A stop for lunch and we were climbing the huge dunes so body board our way down the sand. Great fun though I forgot my own advice to keep your mouth shut and was too busy wailing in delight and received an unwelcome mouthful on the way down.
At the Cape we witnessed where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific and got a glance at Spirits Bay in the distance, a culturally significant place for Maoris. It's where they believe their souls go when they die, finding their way back to their homeland.
That night we headed off to the locals bar to watch the All Blacks play the Wallabies at rugby. A great game to watch with the locals as the All Blacks scored in the first ten minutes and just kept on winning throughout.
Next day we finally managed to go out on our dolphin watching trip. Though sadly we didn't see any dolphins. One of those unusual days when they don't find any. Sometimes they disappear because Orca are in the bay (it would have been fantastic to see one of them) or they just get a bit shy. We headed out to sea to see the 'Hole in the Rock', where the sea got incredibly rough. Every boat trip I take seems to get worse on the seasickness front! I felt truly awful by the time we stopped at a little island for a break and was glad to get on dry land for a while. Note to self next time - actually take the seasickness tablets you've been carrying around rather than assuming you're going to be ok!
Absolutely shattered by the time we got back to Auckland. Several late nights and annoying roommates had just about finished me off by this point. But a good night's sleep with three very nice English girls as companions later and I was setting off in my little El Cheapo car that I've hired for the next ten days. I'm now in Raglan, a totally chilled out surfing town with apparently the best breaks in New Zealand, and some of the best in the world. Tempting to have a surf lesson but I think I'll save that for a hotter climate. It was a beautiful day today so I went for a long walk on the beach and then a drive up the coast to see what else I didn't see on the walk. The sea out here seems to have its own unique colour, a green that I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
Think it might be time for the hot tub now, to rest my weary limbs...
There were only two others on the bus trip with me, both German, though not together. A very sweet girl who is over here before starting university at the end of the Summer, and a trainee lawyer on internship in Auckland for three months. I think there are more Germans travelling here than any other nation. It got to the point where we were laughing every time we heard another German accent.
It was nice to have a small group and not have to make too much effort getting to know the masses. Our tour guide was a nice guy too and took us to some interesting places on the way up to the Bay of Islands. We experienced our first Kauri tree for a bit of tree hugging, though you'd have to have arms several feet long to get all the way round the trunk, they're huge. We also stopped in a small town whose name I can't remember (Mauri names seem to stay in my brain for about half an hour and then I've forgotten them completely) for some Gaudi-esque architecture by an Austrian architect called Hundertwasser (I just had to Google it as I couldn't remember that either - the town is called Kawakawa). He designed some very way out public toilets.
When we got to Paihia, where we were staying for the next two days, we found out we couldn't do the dolphin watching trip planned as there weren't enough of us but we'd get a second chance on the Sunday instead before we left. So headed off on the ferry across the bay to Russell, the first capital of New Zealand. A very pretty little town with the oldest public bar, church and many other buildings as the first settlers arrived in these parts. Had a nice pint of Mac's Gold lager in front of the fire in the hotel bar, I'd really been missing a good old pub so that fulfilled that desire for a while.
After we returned on the ferry we headed to Hurauru Falls, a brisk walk through the forest and mangroves as the sun was going down. The lady at the hostel had played it down saying it wasn't anything special so we were suitably impressed with the thunderous river and rainbows created by the spray when we arrived. We didn't want to chance heading back through the forest in the dark so headed back along the road, a bit of a hairy trip with no pavements and fast cars but we made it after a hard slog up many hills.
That night we relaxed in the hot tub and devoured the bargainous BBQ on offer at the hostel before heading to a couple of pubs. Played Michael at pool and whipped his arse, surprisingly, as I haven't played in so long I can't even remember. There was even mention of it being just like Wembley all those years ago, beating the Germans (though not by me I hasten to add)!
Another early start the next day and we joined a larger party on different tours to head up to the furthest point in the North, Cape Reinga. The bus drove along 90-mile beach, we even saw a little seal pup making his way back into the sea, as well as a few vehicular casualties along the way. A stop for lunch and we were climbing the huge dunes so body board our way down the sand. Great fun though I forgot my own advice to keep your mouth shut and was too busy wailing in delight and received an unwelcome mouthful on the way down.
At the Cape we witnessed where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific and got a glance at Spirits Bay in the distance, a culturally significant place for Maoris. It's where they believe their souls go when they die, finding their way back to their homeland.
That night we headed off to the locals bar to watch the All Blacks play the Wallabies at rugby. A great game to watch with the locals as the All Blacks scored in the first ten minutes and just kept on winning throughout.
Next day we finally managed to go out on our dolphin watching trip. Though sadly we didn't see any dolphins. One of those unusual days when they don't find any. Sometimes they disappear because Orca are in the bay (it would have been fantastic to see one of them) or they just get a bit shy. We headed out to sea to see the 'Hole in the Rock', where the sea got incredibly rough. Every boat trip I take seems to get worse on the seasickness front! I felt truly awful by the time we stopped at a little island for a break and was glad to get on dry land for a while. Note to self next time - actually take the seasickness tablets you've been carrying around rather than assuming you're going to be ok!
Absolutely shattered by the time we got back to Auckland. Several late nights and annoying roommates had just about finished me off by this point. But a good night's sleep with three very nice English girls as companions later and I was setting off in my little El Cheapo car that I've hired for the next ten days. I'm now in Raglan, a totally chilled out surfing town with apparently the best breaks in New Zealand, and some of the best in the world. Tempting to have a surf lesson but I think I'll save that for a hotter climate. It was a beautiful day today so I went for a long walk on the beach and then a drive up the coast to see what else I didn't see on the walk. The sea out here seems to have its own unique colour, a green that I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
Think it might be time for the hot tub now, to rest my weary limbs...
Thursday, 4 August 2011
Sweet (but not short)
So here I am in New Zealand. Can't believe I'm here already, just over halfway through my trip. Though having checked my finances the other day I'd say maybe I'm closer to the end than I'd like! Think I'm going to have to rethink what I do in South America and how long I spend there at this rate. Unless I get a win on the premium bonds or a generous relative over the next few weeks?! If anyone cares to contribute to the Carrie Goldsworthy World Wildlife and Tourism Foundation that would be awesome!!
It's been a glorious day here in Auckland today, the sun has been shining and I think I might have got a little sunburnt on my visage as I've been glowing ever since I got back this afternoon. Or that could be the vino tinto I'm tucking into as I type! (Mum, I know it sounds like I'm on some big booze cruise or something I assure you I'm really not consuming that much...) I've spent the last few days checking out the sights of the city and trying to work out my next move. Takes a while to find your feet when you rock up to a new country, time to absorb the endless information about where to go, how best to get there and what are the cheapest deals.
I arrived on Sunday to be met at the airport by another old friend from the Audit Commission, Nikki and her husband Neal (plus their three year old Connor). It was great to not have to worry about how to get to the hostel or lugging all my stuff on the bus/train and also great to see them after a few years. Both kiwis, they lived in London for ten years and moved back nearly a year ago. They dropped me off at my hostel and we arranged to meet up later in the week for a proper catch up. Later in the evening I went down the road to the local cinema for the final installment of the Harry Potter series, though it wasn't the same without my buddy SJ.
The next day was filled mostly with sorting myself out and popping to the shops to get a few bits and pieces that I'd either abandoned for lack of space in Oz or had run out of and not replaced. I did manage to fit in a trip up Auckland's Sky Tower, which seems to be a staple in every Antipodean city. Always good to get a perspective of a place and what is located where. I also went for a walk along Queen Street (the main shopping area) and in Albert Park but was too late to go round the art gallery, which was a shame.
After not managing to see much on the Monday, the following morning I got up early and decided to blitz as much as possible. Trekking out to Mount Eden on the bus I took in the glorious views of one of the city's many volcanic viewpoints. Back in on the bus and a walk to the Domain, a big park housing a winter gardens and the city's museum. My first foray into Maori and Pacific island culture was most interesting and I was wowed by a couple of full-scale Maori meeting houses, incredibly impressive with all their intricate carvings and scary-looking idols.
Next I walked to Newmarket to browse a few shops but found them very similar to those in Oz, typical high-street fare. I was going to head to Parnell but instead the bus was heading towards Ponsonby so for ease I changed plans and headed there instead. A lovely area with smart houses and posh shops. Little did I know that I'd be heading back there with Nikki and Neal later for a slap-up meal and cocktails.
Walking back along K'Road, an eclectic mix of grungy op shops and bars, I managed to purchase a couple of bargainous jumpers to keep me toasty warm in the snow of the South Island later on in my trip.
Yesterday I got picked up for a free bus trip by a company that I wanted to check out to see whether to book a bigger trip with them. Stray are all about getting off the beaten track and were set up by one of the founders of Kiwi Experience, who I'd already discounted for being a bit too young and party-orientated - not quite what I was looking for. We went up to Bastion Point for more views of the city from afar, lunch in Ponsonby and then got a free Auckland bridge walk though no one opted to bungy from the middle so one of the staff members showed us how it was done instead. It was a good day and nice to meet some different people so I went ahead and booked a three-day trip to the Bay of Islands, south of Auckland, starting tomorrow. Then I'm thinking of getting them to chauffeur me round most of the South Island as I don't want to drive myself in any icy or snowy conditions. Last night was spent at Nikki's parents for dinner, sampling a New Zealand classic (apparently) of bacon and egg pie and a delicious dessert that my host had cooked. Lucky me.
Today I sorted out some of my future trips, charged up the new SIM card that I've got to save on mobile costs and caught the ferry to Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano that you can walk to the summit of and get more stunning views of the bay and surrounding islands. It was good to get some exercise and break into a sweat. On the way back I stopped off at Devonport, a nice seaside town with smart shops and houses, just a short commute across the harbour from Auckland city centre.
Looking forward to getting out of the city tomorrow and seeing more of the countryside. I'll also be glad to get away from some of the pretty rubbish room mates I've had over the last couple of days. An older woman from Taiwan has been driving me mad with her penchant for staying up late and flicking the lights on so she can belch loudly and regurgitate part of her evening meal - most pleasant! A previous room mate kept me awake half the night with her incessant snoring and tossing and turning. Up until now I've been pretty lucky so I guess the honeymoon period of hostelling is well and truly over.
On a final note, kiwis seem to say 'sweet' an awful lot, hence the title of the post!
It's been a glorious day here in Auckland today, the sun has been shining and I think I might have got a little sunburnt on my visage as I've been glowing ever since I got back this afternoon. Or that could be the vino tinto I'm tucking into as I type! (Mum, I know it sounds like I'm on some big booze cruise or something I assure you I'm really not consuming that much...) I've spent the last few days checking out the sights of the city and trying to work out my next move. Takes a while to find your feet when you rock up to a new country, time to absorb the endless information about where to go, how best to get there and what are the cheapest deals.
I arrived on Sunday to be met at the airport by another old friend from the Audit Commission, Nikki and her husband Neal (plus their three year old Connor). It was great to not have to worry about how to get to the hostel or lugging all my stuff on the bus/train and also great to see them after a few years. Both kiwis, they lived in London for ten years and moved back nearly a year ago. They dropped me off at my hostel and we arranged to meet up later in the week for a proper catch up. Later in the evening I went down the road to the local cinema for the final installment of the Harry Potter series, though it wasn't the same without my buddy SJ.
The next day was filled mostly with sorting myself out and popping to the shops to get a few bits and pieces that I'd either abandoned for lack of space in Oz or had run out of and not replaced. I did manage to fit in a trip up Auckland's Sky Tower, which seems to be a staple in every Antipodean city. Always good to get a perspective of a place and what is located where. I also went for a walk along Queen Street (the main shopping area) and in Albert Park but was too late to go round the art gallery, which was a shame.
After not managing to see much on the Monday, the following morning I got up early and decided to blitz as much as possible. Trekking out to Mount Eden on the bus I took in the glorious views of one of the city's many volcanic viewpoints. Back in on the bus and a walk to the Domain, a big park housing a winter gardens and the city's museum. My first foray into Maori and Pacific island culture was most interesting and I was wowed by a couple of full-scale Maori meeting houses, incredibly impressive with all their intricate carvings and scary-looking idols.
Next I walked to Newmarket to browse a few shops but found them very similar to those in Oz, typical high-street fare. I was going to head to Parnell but instead the bus was heading towards Ponsonby so for ease I changed plans and headed there instead. A lovely area with smart houses and posh shops. Little did I know that I'd be heading back there with Nikki and Neal later for a slap-up meal and cocktails.
Walking back along K'Road, an eclectic mix of grungy op shops and bars, I managed to purchase a couple of bargainous jumpers to keep me toasty warm in the snow of the South Island later on in my trip.
Yesterday I got picked up for a free bus trip by a company that I wanted to check out to see whether to book a bigger trip with them. Stray are all about getting off the beaten track and were set up by one of the founders of Kiwi Experience, who I'd already discounted for being a bit too young and party-orientated - not quite what I was looking for. We went up to Bastion Point for more views of the city from afar, lunch in Ponsonby and then got a free Auckland bridge walk though no one opted to bungy from the middle so one of the staff members showed us how it was done instead. It was a good day and nice to meet some different people so I went ahead and booked a three-day trip to the Bay of Islands, south of Auckland, starting tomorrow. Then I'm thinking of getting them to chauffeur me round most of the South Island as I don't want to drive myself in any icy or snowy conditions. Last night was spent at Nikki's parents for dinner, sampling a New Zealand classic (apparently) of bacon and egg pie and a delicious dessert that my host had cooked. Lucky me.
Today I sorted out some of my future trips, charged up the new SIM card that I've got to save on mobile costs and caught the ferry to Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano that you can walk to the summit of and get more stunning views of the bay and surrounding islands. It was good to get some exercise and break into a sweat. On the way back I stopped off at Devonport, a nice seaside town with smart shops and houses, just a short commute across the harbour from Auckland city centre.
Looking forward to getting out of the city tomorrow and seeing more of the countryside. I'll also be glad to get away from some of the pretty rubbish room mates I've had over the last couple of days. An older woman from Taiwan has been driving me mad with her penchant for staying up late and flicking the lights on so she can belch loudly and regurgitate part of her evening meal - most pleasant! A previous room mate kept me awake half the night with her incessant snoring and tossing and turning. Up until now I've been pretty lucky so I guess the honeymoon period of hostelling is well and truly over.
On a final note, kiwis seem to say 'sweet' an awful lot, hence the title of the post!
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