So my final post summing up my six months of the most amazing travelling experience (for me anyway)!
After 27 flights, 17 boat trips, 7 trams, 6 push bikes, 5 train journeys, 4 cable cars, two motorbike taxis, two hire cars and far too many buses to mention my travels have finally come to a close. After reading 8books (not all of which were about the countries I was travelling in though the majority were), consuming 7 tubes of toothpaste, 6 bottles of suntan lotion, 5 insect repellants, and 1 packet of malaria tablets how can I answer the questions I posed to myself in my last post?
Firstly I don't feel that I have changed dramatically from when I set off on 7 April, nervous and excited. I think I'm old enough to pretty much know my own mind and personality unlike some of the younger travellers I've encountered fresh out of school or university. I'm sure it has altered me in many ways, made me more confident and outgoing, hopefully made me a better person in others but ultimately I didn't go travelling to 'find myself' in a cheesy 'Eat, Pray, Love' sense. For me it was about taking a break from work, perhaps figuring out what I want to do next and having an incredible experience that I would never forget. Box ticked, mission accomplished in that sense. Well, apart from maybe the 'what to do next bit'. Earn some money is the main priority now!
As for the highlight of my trip, that is harder to nail down. The country that stands out is undoubtedly China as the most fascinating, culturally challenging and memorable. I didn't love everything about it and the people are probably the most unfriendly that I encountered but I find the past and future of China incredibly interesting. I would love to return and see more, perhaps even live and work somewhere like Shanghai and immerse myself in the culture even more. In terms of activities, despite all the thrilling things I've done (Sydney harbour bridge climb, black water rafting, jet boating, snow shoeing, flying in a small plane over Fraser Island, sea kayaking, tubing, lugeing, scuba diving) the one that stands out the most is definitely walking the Great Wall. Fulfilling a childhood dream of seeing such an impressive structure and spending six days doing so was really a highlight for me. I thought the Galapagos would be right up there and although it was a fantastic experience, I met some great people and felt privileged to be part of the conservation work there I think I was at the beginning a little disappointed at how normal life on the islands seemed. The wildlife is unique but maybe if I'd gone at the beginning of the trip or spent more time exploring it would have eclipsed all else and sneaked into the number one spot.
In terms of meeting great people and making great friends though the Galapagos would be up there with the cyclling trip across Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. I know many of my fellow cyclists have met up in London since the holiday so I hope to catch up with them soon. And the fact that I caught up with the ladies in Hong Kong and stayed with Ruth and Andrew in Christchurch was testament to what great friendships I made. New Zealand would probably come third on the list as I've kept in touch with a fair few of my bus buddies. I may have future trips to Sweden, Italy, Germany and other foreign destinations to look forward to, who knows! I'm lucky enough to have made a few (hopefully) lifelong friends on the China trip too. There's already a date in the diary to catch up.
What did I learn about myself? Well I guess I'm not as big a homebody who hates change as I thought I was. I really didn't struggle as much as I thought I would to be away from home and family and friends. It's not that I didn't miss you all but I was perfectly happy living in the moment, experiencing new people and places on a daily basis. Perhaps I need to inject a lot more of that into my life at home to keep on an even keel from now on.
But careerwise where I had doubts about the direction that I was going in, being away from work made me realise that I did enjoy what I did before, working in communications, that I'm good at it and would be quite happy to return to a similar role though perhaps for an different type of organisation. Something I'm more interested in and that perhaps fulfils my continuing passion for travel or wilflife/conservation. But I guess the current climate for finding jobs means I may have to take what I can get for the time being.
If I had my time again and could do thing differently I would, not that I regret the way things worked out but the places that I felt most in tune or at home were in the developing countries, with like-minded travellers. Australia and New Zealand were great for many reasons and it was great to catch up with friends and family. But I felt much more out of place visiting friends with lives similar to back home, working and socialising with friends when mine was wholeheartedly different. And also the type of traveller I encountered in hostels did make me feel I should have done that sort of thing about ten years ago! They were lovely but I didn't always feel like I had that much in common and didn't always want to go to some sh*tty Irish bar for a cheap pint like a university student.
My biggest regret though is that I didn't have enough money left to do South America justice. It was the continent that I was most looking forward to and saw the least of really. But it's always good have something to go back for, a travelling goal to work towards. It did scare me somewhat when I arrived (perhaps after the whole near-miss mugging experience in Buenos Aires) the thought of travelling around on my own with so little Spanish and the safety issues you hear so much about from fellow travellers. It was hard to know how bad it really was in Quito but at times you did feel a bit of a caged animal, fearing going out on your own or taking any possessions with you. But I felt much more at one with the kind of travellers there, a more mature kind of person even if they weren't actually any older than travellers elsewhere. You've got to have a certain amount of savvy about you to travel there I think. I definitely have a lot more places in mind that I want to explore.
Finally, what wisdom do I have to impart on travelling? Well, don't go to Australia at the moment unless you have a small fortune to spend! Asian people (apart from the Chinese) are by far the friendliest I encountered. You really do need to understand even the most basic Spanish to feel comfortable travelling around South America. You really don't need guide books in Australia and New Zealand as the volume of information you can pick up in information centres is pretty fantastic and all free. And cycling is just an amazing way to experience a country.
My best buys for travelling were a Platypus foldaway water bottle, my Osprey rucksack with detachable daypack, a USB charger and plug adaptor in one, three Eagle Creek compression bags, and a waterproof bag for my best friend - my SLR camera which allowed me to take some pretty fantastic photos with very little skill of my own. My iPhone was incredibly useful in places with free wifi but I do wish that I'd bought and taken a netbook with me to back up photos, music and tv programmes. It was also often cheaper to get online with your own laptop than using a hostel computer in the long term. But mostly I'm glad that I learnt to live with a lot less and have come back slightly ashamed of the volume of material possessions I have stashed away in my parents' loft at the moment. Which was part of the reason for going. Curb those shopaholic tendencies of mine!
A huge thanks goes to all of you who have read my blogs with interest and posted comments or got in touch as a result. I've probably ruined all chances of having a conversation if and when we do catch up with all my ramblings but there should still be plenty of nuggets, observations and experiences that I haven't included. I checked my stats the other day and was pretty chuffed that I'm nearly up to 2,000 page visits in the whole six months that I've been away. Experience tells me that they aren't all from my friends, family, colleagues and acquaintances but even half that amount would have sufficed.
Enough of my ramblings anyway. You'll have to text, email, facebook, tweet or call me from now on to find out what's going on in my life. Or ask my parents! And if you'd like to give me a job writing, editing, travelling more of the world etc that would be pretty damn fantastic... End of an era it feels... over and out. Speak or see you soon I hope.
Monday, 10 October 2011
Sunday, 9 October 2011
Remains of the day(s)
After our sojourn in the 'city' as we liked to call it (really only the size of a big village or small town) it was time to go back to work, back to simple living and back to the mosquitoes. But it was a good week overall, settling into life at the station. On the Monday we set to work in the kitchen garden, digging shallow trenches to plant lettuce and broccoli, weeding the rows of carrots and other edible flora. It was a tough and knackering full day's work and I hadn't realised how much the mosquitoes were attacking me until I noticed all the blood spots on my hands where I'd removed my gloves to pull up some more delicate plants. Thank goodness I'd been wearing my head net otherwise they would have gone to town on me. By far the hardest part about being at the station was keeping the mozzies at bay. Luckily the temperature was moderate so it was easy to remain covered up most of the time but occasionally working up a huge sweat underneath all those layers was a hindrance.
But there wasn't too much to complain about as we set about attacking some of the mora bushes in a local farmer's field the next day. Again, tough work but rather therapeutic to hack a whole load of thorned, overgrown bushes with a machete. I'm convinced I had the toughest corner of the field with about seven small trees to negotiate where the blackberries had grown up, over and around the branches so not only did I have to cut from the bottom but above my head to disentangle the masses. It's a wonder I didn't take a chunk out of myself once my arms got tired! A job well done but we left plenty more to attack at a later date. I think I will view blackberries in a whole different light from now on.
With the rest of the afternoon off, we just chilled in the hammocks and snoozed or read books for the remainder of the day. A well earned rest. That evening was Sheil's last night so a few of us headed off to the bar down the road for drinking games, pool and a spot of salsa. It turned out to be a bit of a drunken one with an inebriated Sheil returning to the station on the back of the local farmer's horse and slumping to the floor after the bumpy ride back. I had the misfortune of being on breakfast duty the following morning nursing my cheap rum hangover and squeezing about 30 oranges for the fresh juice, a staple at every meal.
Then followed coffee picking in the local farmer's field and an education in how to prepare, roast and grind the beans throughout the day. The picking itself wasn't so much fun but the previous night's drinking might have had a lot to do with it. I made the mistake of trying to climb up and over a log in muddy boots and found myself lying flat on my back as fast as my coffee beans could fly off into the brown sludge around me. So then I had to pick them all over again, up out of the mud and back into my bucket! The rest of the process that afternoon was pretty enjoyable though as Shannon and I made a good fire-starting and roasting team. Fascinating to see the process through from start to finish and would have been even better if I actually liked to drink the final product. The fresh stuff smelt pretty good though.
The next day we were back at the national park digging holes and planting trees but there wasn't too much for us to do so after another visit to the giant tortoise sanctuary it was another afternoon of chilling out in the hammocks, snoozing and chatting amongst ourselves. On Friday we revisited the national park but this time the nursery to replant seedlings for an hour or two. An easy morning and I had to laugh when the rest of the group were showered with a fine spray of water as Jefferson turned on the wrong sprinklers while I was in the safety of a dry section of the nursery.
We walked to the nearby Puerto Chino beach for a barbecue lunch, a spot of surf jumping in the cold sea and more insights into the local wildlife. A great way to kick off the weekend. It was good to all be back in town and treat ourselves to a nice meal, a few cocktails and some more salsa at the local nightclub that evening. Then it was up early the following morning with Brenda and Shannon to get another seasickness-inducing ride, this time to Santa Cruz for a few days. It was good to see another island, busier and a bit more touristy but still pretty quaint and small. It was a quiet day as we were all feeling a bit sleep-deprived and delicate.
The next day was packed with visiting the stunning locale of Tortuga Bay to soak up the sun, sea and sand as well as marine iguanas lining the beach. They were pretty prehistoric-looking creatures and a couple of them reminded me of a mean-looking 80s punk. I think it was the spikes that did it. You'll hopefully see what I mean by the photos.
Then ensued a tour of the highlands to see two huge volcanic craters, lava tunnels and more giant tortoises. I felt happier to have seen a bit more of island life, having wondered if I was missing out by being stationed in one place. I accept that I probably saw a lot less than those who've travelled around on a cruise but overall I did really appreciate that the volunteering was a rich experience in many ways. I saw a different side to the islands and although I'm not sure how much I really contributed in such a short space of time I'm glad that I have made even a small mark on the conservation of such a wonderful environment that should endure for generations to come.
All that remained to do after we returned to the station was pack up and have a last night celebrating with my fellow volunteers at the bar. I resisted drinking any more dodgy, cheap rum especially as some of the others were playing drinking games again but still managed a fun, late night playing pool, dancing and saying a final farewell to my new-found friends.
Before I knew it I was back in Quito planning a trip to Cotopaxi, the highest volcanic peak in Ecuador, to round off my travels before returning home. It was a great way to spend my last few days away, chiling out in the jacuzzi, finishing off my latest book curled up in front of the fire and playing cards with my hostel companions. It was a beautiful place and as I hiked up to the glacier partway up the peak (about 4,100m above sea level) I got a good view of the surrounding terrain once the clouds cleared. It was only a short hike but pretty hard work at that altitude without much acclimatisation. But the fun was to be had in mountain biking our way down until it started tipping it down and we got covered in mud and grit.
I was a bit subdued with thoughts of returning home but caught up with Ian, a guy I'd met in Quito a few weeks before who had been waiting to head off to the Galapagos. Think he may be heading to the same place that I was at but he wasn't sure what it was called so it will be interesting to see how it pans out. I ended up staying an extra night at the hostel as it was difficult to head back without enough people to fill private transport, it really was in the middle of nowhere. But I returned to Quito in time to have a final supper and head off to the airport to catch my flight home.
So now that I've returned to English soil there might be some burning questions to answer. Have I changed? What was the highlight of my trip? What did I learn about myself? What wisdom do I have to impart on travelling? How would I do things differently knowing what I know now? Well I think I've got one more post in me to answer all these and wrap things up apart from a million and one photos still to share. But I'll save that for tomorrow when I'm a little less jet lagged and have had a little more time to pull together my thoughts.
But there wasn't too much to complain about as we set about attacking some of the mora bushes in a local farmer's field the next day. Again, tough work but rather therapeutic to hack a whole load of thorned, overgrown bushes with a machete. I'm convinced I had the toughest corner of the field with about seven small trees to negotiate where the blackberries had grown up, over and around the branches so not only did I have to cut from the bottom but above my head to disentangle the masses. It's a wonder I didn't take a chunk out of myself once my arms got tired! A job well done but we left plenty more to attack at a later date. I think I will view blackberries in a whole different light from now on.
With the rest of the afternoon off, we just chilled in the hammocks and snoozed or read books for the remainder of the day. A well earned rest. That evening was Sheil's last night so a few of us headed off to the bar down the road for drinking games, pool and a spot of salsa. It turned out to be a bit of a drunken one with an inebriated Sheil returning to the station on the back of the local farmer's horse and slumping to the floor after the bumpy ride back. I had the misfortune of being on breakfast duty the following morning nursing my cheap rum hangover and squeezing about 30 oranges for the fresh juice, a staple at every meal.
Then followed coffee picking in the local farmer's field and an education in how to prepare, roast and grind the beans throughout the day. The picking itself wasn't so much fun but the previous night's drinking might have had a lot to do with it. I made the mistake of trying to climb up and over a log in muddy boots and found myself lying flat on my back as fast as my coffee beans could fly off into the brown sludge around me. So then I had to pick them all over again, up out of the mud and back into my bucket! The rest of the process that afternoon was pretty enjoyable though as Shannon and I made a good fire-starting and roasting team. Fascinating to see the process through from start to finish and would have been even better if I actually liked to drink the final product. The fresh stuff smelt pretty good though.
The next day we were back at the national park digging holes and planting trees but there wasn't too much for us to do so after another visit to the giant tortoise sanctuary it was another afternoon of chilling out in the hammocks, snoozing and chatting amongst ourselves. On Friday we revisited the national park but this time the nursery to replant seedlings for an hour or two. An easy morning and I had to laugh when the rest of the group were showered with a fine spray of water as Jefferson turned on the wrong sprinklers while I was in the safety of a dry section of the nursery.
We walked to the nearby Puerto Chino beach for a barbecue lunch, a spot of surf jumping in the cold sea and more insights into the local wildlife. A great way to kick off the weekend. It was good to all be back in town and treat ourselves to a nice meal, a few cocktails and some more salsa at the local nightclub that evening. Then it was up early the following morning with Brenda and Shannon to get another seasickness-inducing ride, this time to Santa Cruz for a few days. It was good to see another island, busier and a bit more touristy but still pretty quaint and small. It was a quiet day as we were all feeling a bit sleep-deprived and delicate.
The next day was packed with visiting the stunning locale of Tortuga Bay to soak up the sun, sea and sand as well as marine iguanas lining the beach. They were pretty prehistoric-looking creatures and a couple of them reminded me of a mean-looking 80s punk. I think it was the spikes that did it. You'll hopefully see what I mean by the photos.
Then ensued a tour of the highlands to see two huge volcanic craters, lava tunnels and more giant tortoises. I felt happier to have seen a bit more of island life, having wondered if I was missing out by being stationed in one place. I accept that I probably saw a lot less than those who've travelled around on a cruise but overall I did really appreciate that the volunteering was a rich experience in many ways. I saw a different side to the islands and although I'm not sure how much I really contributed in such a short space of time I'm glad that I have made even a small mark on the conservation of such a wonderful environment that should endure for generations to come.
All that remained to do after we returned to the station was pack up and have a last night celebrating with my fellow volunteers at the bar. I resisted drinking any more dodgy, cheap rum especially as some of the others were playing drinking games again but still managed a fun, late night playing pool, dancing and saying a final farewell to my new-found friends.
Before I knew it I was back in Quito planning a trip to Cotopaxi, the highest volcanic peak in Ecuador, to round off my travels before returning home. It was a great way to spend my last few days away, chiling out in the jacuzzi, finishing off my latest book curled up in front of the fire and playing cards with my hostel companions. It was a beautiful place and as I hiked up to the glacier partway up the peak (about 4,100m above sea level) I got a good view of the surrounding terrain once the clouds cleared. It was only a short hike but pretty hard work at that altitude without much acclimatisation. But the fun was to be had in mountain biking our way down until it started tipping it down and we got covered in mud and grit.
I was a bit subdued with thoughts of returning home but caught up with Ian, a guy I'd met in Quito a few weeks before who had been waiting to head off to the Galapagos. Think he may be heading to the same place that I was at but he wasn't sure what it was called so it will be interesting to see how it pans out. I ended up staying an extra night at the hostel as it was difficult to head back without enough people to fill private transport, it really was in the middle of nowhere. But I returned to Quito in time to have a final supper and head off to the airport to catch my flight home.
So now that I've returned to English soil there might be some burning questions to answer. Have I changed? What was the highlight of my trip? What did I learn about myself? What wisdom do I have to impart on travelling? How would I do things differently knowing what I know now? Well I think I've got one more post in me to answer all these and wrap things up apart from a million and one photos still to share. But I'll save that for tomorrow when I'm a little less jet lagged and have had a little more time to pull together my thoughts.
Friday, 7 October 2011
Homeward bound
I'm sitting at the airport waiting for the long flight home as I write. It will be weird but I'll have to finish off my stories when I return home. Still got a fair bit to fill you in on but it will be so odd to write it from home instead of some Internet cafe or hostel computer. I'll save my insights and impressions of travelling for the final post. But for now this is to say Hasta luego until I reach English soil.
As an aside, had a random experience at the airport of being carted off to some little room by plain-clothed narcotics policemen to be tested for drugs on a little machine. Like a little conveyor belt. One of those moments where you imagine something totally dodgy happening but then remind yourself you're in a high security place and they're probably just bored!
As an aside, had a random experience at the airport of being carted off to some little room by plain-clothed narcotics policemen to be tested for drugs on a little machine. Like a little conveyor belt. One of those moments where you imagine something totally dodgy happening but then remind yourself you're in a high security place and they're probably just bored!
Wednesday, 5 October 2011
Island explorer
It's been a while since my last post but with no internet at the station and lots of exploring to do on the islands when not there, there hasn't been a lot of time to devote to writing to all of you about what I've been doing. My time in the Galapagos has now come to an end so I'm back in Quito briefly before heading off later today to Cotopaxi to the sister hostel of the one I've stayed at in the city. There's walking, waterfalls and volcanoes to squeeze in before I fly home this weekend. Yes, that's right my flight is booked (thanks Mum and Dad) and I'll be home before you know it. I have mixed feelings about coming home. After living a basic life for a few weeks and not having all the mod cons in South America I'm looking forward to some home comforts and seeing all my friends and family. But I'll definitely miss the excitement of travelling, meeting new people and having such amazing experiences on a daily basis.
But first there's the last week and a half to cover. I'll only get so far and then I'll have to come back and tell you more. Got some packing to do (an almost daily occurrence). So the weekend before last, when we were staying in town on San Cristobal island, we booked a day tour around the island on a boat. The first boat trip in a long time that didn't make me feel horrendously seasick so that was a bonus. We went snorkelling on Islas Lobos and saw lots of fish, sea turtles, rays, sealions (but they're everywhere here anyway). I however bottled the second snorkel as I still can't bring myself to swim in shark-infested waters. This was by Kicker Rock, further out at sea in very dark, deep waters. I was pretty cold on the boat by this point as we didn't have any towels with us, not having realised that snorkelling was included in the trip. So some of us stayed on the boat while the others went diving and swimming. Gave me an opportunity for a bit of a sunbathe though and also to get my first sight of some of those blue-footed boobies that are so famous in these parts.
There were some really interesting people on the boat too, mostly guys. Two pilots from Las Vegas who work for a casino owner and fly round the world at their boss's whim. A crazy Brazilian guy who only really wanted to talk to one of the pilots he took a liking to but would quiz anyone who had been to interesting places on their travels or had an interest in diving. And a couple of really nice Israelis, one of whom had a phobia of sharks and kept telling us where his insurance papers were, his phone and how much he loved his mum before diving into the water. After the snorkelling we headed to Manglecito beach for a little wander and to check out Darwin's finches, which are so tame they come and land on you while you're lying on the sand or just hop around you checking out whether you have any food.
Then it was back to the station later that day, back to the cold showers, mosquitoes, spiders and cockroaches. But the week went quickly and some more volunteers arrived so we kept ourselves busy and had fun going to the bar down the road for Sheil's last night. I'll tell you more in the next post about what we got up to and our island hopping over last weekend.
But first there's the last week and a half to cover. I'll only get so far and then I'll have to come back and tell you more. Got some packing to do (an almost daily occurrence). So the weekend before last, when we were staying in town on San Cristobal island, we booked a day tour around the island on a boat. The first boat trip in a long time that didn't make me feel horrendously seasick so that was a bonus. We went snorkelling on Islas Lobos and saw lots of fish, sea turtles, rays, sealions (but they're everywhere here anyway). I however bottled the second snorkel as I still can't bring myself to swim in shark-infested waters. This was by Kicker Rock, further out at sea in very dark, deep waters. I was pretty cold on the boat by this point as we didn't have any towels with us, not having realised that snorkelling was included in the trip. So some of us stayed on the boat while the others went diving and swimming. Gave me an opportunity for a bit of a sunbathe though and also to get my first sight of some of those blue-footed boobies that are so famous in these parts.
There were some really interesting people on the boat too, mostly guys. Two pilots from Las Vegas who work for a casino owner and fly round the world at their boss's whim. A crazy Brazilian guy who only really wanted to talk to one of the pilots he took a liking to but would quiz anyone who had been to interesting places on their travels or had an interest in diving. And a couple of really nice Israelis, one of whom had a phobia of sharks and kept telling us where his insurance papers were, his phone and how much he loved his mum before diving into the water. After the snorkelling we headed to Manglecito beach for a little wander and to check out Darwin's finches, which are so tame they come and land on you while you're lying on the sand or just hop around you checking out whether you have any food.
Then it was back to the station later that day, back to the cold showers, mosquitoes, spiders and cockroaches. But the week went quickly and some more volunteers arrived so we kept ourselves busy and had fun going to the bar down the road for Sheil's last night. I'll tell you more in the next post about what we got up to and our island hopping over last weekend.
Saturday, 24 September 2011
Wildlife watch
So here I am in the Galapagos. The flight over wasn´t too bad, a little delayed and the person who was supposed to meet me at the airport and get me through check-in didn´t arrive. But I managed to figure things out by myself and got on the plane without too much fuss.
At the other end there were two other girls also heading to the same biological station for the voluntary work. Brenda, a kiwi, and Shannon, a yank. We chatted in the truck on the way about where we´d come from, how long we were staying etc. Nice girls. When we arrived we met some of the rest of the team, mostly German speaking though their English (and Spanish) is pretty good, and were taken to the room that we would be sharing. Shannon´s unpacking made me laugh as she´d bought everything and the kitchen sink. But I´ve already borrowed her spare watch as mine packed up on me (my second one so far).
That afternoon we got acquainted with where things were, had a briefing from the station coordinator (translated for us by one of the German girls from Spanish to English) and then went into the forest to pick some oranges for the week´s juice. The station is pretty basic, as I expected, but comfortable enough. There´s one shower with hot water though it comes out at a trickle, the beds are reasonable and the mosquito nets are pretty good. Which is a lifesaver as there are plenty of little bloodsuckers around to make your life hell. Especially when it rains, which is does frequently. They all hide inside and drive you mad. But everyone keeps each other going.
We went to a little bar down the road on our first night as Wednesday´s are usually the day for a little light relief. For which I was grateful as otherwise there isn´t that much to do in the evening after an early dinner except play cards or go to bed early. And it was good to get to know everyone a bit better over a beer or two.
The next day was our first proper day of work and after breakfast we were taken to Galapaguera, the national park, to dig holes and plant scalesia trees (endemic to the Galapagos) all morning. It was hard work but rewarding to see the areas on the opposite hills that had been cleared and reforested. Mora (or blackberry bushes as we know them) are the biggest pest here and spread like wildfire, taking over all the vegetation.
Later that morning, after our work was done, we were taken to the giant tortoise sanctuary to see them with our own eyes and take some photos - a reward for our hard work. Then we had the afternoon off so I settled into a hammock and read some of my book, fighting to keep the mozzies at bay. A quiet and early night followed, ready for the next day.
Friday´s are a day off, as is the rest of the weekend, and unbeknown to me before arriving on the island, everyone heads into the capital city for the weekend. I say ´city´ but really it is a teeny tiny town by the airport on San Cristobal. We checked in first thing and then the workers took us to the beach to snorkel with sealions, turtles and lots of fish in a nearby bay. It was pretty freezing cold but after I´d stopped hyperventilating and the ice cream headache from the low temperatures went away it was actually quite ok swimming around and checking out the marine wildlife. The beach was covered with snoozing sealions. They are everywhere in town too, draped over the local swings and slides, walkways, boats and platforms out to sea.
After an afternoon siesta we went for a walk around town and then headed out for dinner in the evening. A few drinks in the local bars followed and finally got to bed about 1.30am. A good night. This morning we headed to another beach on the other side of town to chill out with more sealions and turtles. It´s nice to experience some warmer weather and feel like you are on holiday again with some beach action.
All in all the islands are living up to expectations so far. Next week working the whole time is going to be a physical and mental challenge but that will be my only full week so I´m sure I´ll survive. The mud and rain can get you down a bit but it´s not forever so perfectly bearable.
As I´ve incurred a few unexpected costs lately (whoever said travelling could be cheap!?) it looks like I might be flying home soon after I finish here in the Galapagos. Shame to be heading home earlier than expected and not have done all the things I´d hoped in South America but I´ve had such an incredible journey I really can´t complain or be disappointed. I think after this I will be ready to come home too. The constant moving around and adapting to new environments can get tiring after a while and I´d rather return home on a high than drag it out to the point of being unhappy with where I am. So it looks like I´ll be home towards the beginning of October. You lucky things!!
At the other end there were two other girls also heading to the same biological station for the voluntary work. Brenda, a kiwi, and Shannon, a yank. We chatted in the truck on the way about where we´d come from, how long we were staying etc. Nice girls. When we arrived we met some of the rest of the team, mostly German speaking though their English (and Spanish) is pretty good, and were taken to the room that we would be sharing. Shannon´s unpacking made me laugh as she´d bought everything and the kitchen sink. But I´ve already borrowed her spare watch as mine packed up on me (my second one so far).
That afternoon we got acquainted with where things were, had a briefing from the station coordinator (translated for us by one of the German girls from Spanish to English) and then went into the forest to pick some oranges for the week´s juice. The station is pretty basic, as I expected, but comfortable enough. There´s one shower with hot water though it comes out at a trickle, the beds are reasonable and the mosquito nets are pretty good. Which is a lifesaver as there are plenty of little bloodsuckers around to make your life hell. Especially when it rains, which is does frequently. They all hide inside and drive you mad. But everyone keeps each other going.
We went to a little bar down the road on our first night as Wednesday´s are usually the day for a little light relief. For which I was grateful as otherwise there isn´t that much to do in the evening after an early dinner except play cards or go to bed early. And it was good to get to know everyone a bit better over a beer or two.
The next day was our first proper day of work and after breakfast we were taken to Galapaguera, the national park, to dig holes and plant scalesia trees (endemic to the Galapagos) all morning. It was hard work but rewarding to see the areas on the opposite hills that had been cleared and reforested. Mora (or blackberry bushes as we know them) are the biggest pest here and spread like wildfire, taking over all the vegetation.
Later that morning, after our work was done, we were taken to the giant tortoise sanctuary to see them with our own eyes and take some photos - a reward for our hard work. Then we had the afternoon off so I settled into a hammock and read some of my book, fighting to keep the mozzies at bay. A quiet and early night followed, ready for the next day.
Friday´s are a day off, as is the rest of the weekend, and unbeknown to me before arriving on the island, everyone heads into the capital city for the weekend. I say ´city´ but really it is a teeny tiny town by the airport on San Cristobal. We checked in first thing and then the workers took us to the beach to snorkel with sealions, turtles and lots of fish in a nearby bay. It was pretty freezing cold but after I´d stopped hyperventilating and the ice cream headache from the low temperatures went away it was actually quite ok swimming around and checking out the marine wildlife. The beach was covered with snoozing sealions. They are everywhere in town too, draped over the local swings and slides, walkways, boats and platforms out to sea.
After an afternoon siesta we went for a walk around town and then headed out for dinner in the evening. A few drinks in the local bars followed and finally got to bed about 1.30am. A good night. This morning we headed to another beach on the other side of town to chill out with more sealions and turtles. It´s nice to experience some warmer weather and feel like you are on holiday again with some beach action.
All in all the islands are living up to expectations so far. Next week working the whole time is going to be a physical and mental challenge but that will be my only full week so I´m sure I´ll survive. The mud and rain can get you down a bit but it´s not forever so perfectly bearable.
As I´ve incurred a few unexpected costs lately (whoever said travelling could be cheap!?) it looks like I might be flying home soon after I finish here in the Galapagos. Shame to be heading home earlier than expected and not have done all the things I´d hoped in South America but I´ve had such an incredible journey I really can´t complain or be disappointed. I think after this I will be ready to come home too. The constant moving around and adapting to new environments can get tiring after a while and I´d rather return home on a high than drag it out to the point of being unhappy with where I am. So it looks like I´ll be home towards the beginning of October. You lucky things!!
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
Garden party
Well it's been a great few days at the Secret Garden hostel in Quito. I've not stayed anywhere quite so fantastically friendly. Met some wicked people, including someone from the Audit Commission weirdly enough. Girl on the bunk below me in the dorm, I found out after a couple of days, was an auditor in Northern and London region. Such a small world but then I suppose with so many of us being made redundant the percentage of people who headed off round the world was perhaps higher than average!
Maybe people are more friendly in South America because there's safety in numbers and the language barriers, we shall have to see. Have a lot of new friends on Facebook and some people to possibly catch up with further along the line of travelling {if I get very far that is, more dosh is being eaten up at far too rapid a rate, I thought it was supposed to be cheap here!!}.
So what have I been up to since I've been here apart from partying? Went for a wander round the old town with a guy from the hostel, Darren. We'd been warned quite heavily by the staff not to wander round on our own, take taxis and not take out anything valuable. After Buenos Aires and my brush with another mugging I wasn't taking any chances. We visited a few of the old sites, went in a few churches, grabbed a locally flavoured bite to eat and did a bit of shopping round a black market shopping centre. That night everyone hung out on the rooftop terrace soaking up the views and the local booze.
A great guy Dan turned up at the hostel and kept us all entertained. We stayed up talking in the dorm and kept getting busted by the overzealous security guard. It was like being at boarding school or something. Slightly nuts but did make us laugh.
Next morning was an early start to go to the Otovalo markets a couple of hours from Quito. First we went to the animal market where all sorts of creatures were offered up by the locals. Kittens, puppies, pigs, ducks, calves, turkeys, rabbits, guinea pigs. Dread to think what was going to happen to them all. I overhead one American woman wanting to take a $15 puppy home to the US. Got some fantastic photos of some of the indigenous people though. Such amazing faces and most of them in traditional dress.
Next we went to the regular Saturday market, mostly selling souvenirs but also some food, clothes and other bits and pieces. More interesting people watching and having a laugh with Darren as he bought a luminous green cyclops woolly hat. I bought a couple of presents (ah you'll have to wait and see if you're a lucky recipient) and a little pair of earrings for myself.
Then it was time for lunch in the nearby town of Cotacachi and a visit to the Peguche waterfall. Then back to Quito for a crazy night out with a big crowd from the hostel. I managed to stay out all night and not get to bed until about 7am but it had been a mission to stay up and see the sunrise at some point on my trip. Shame the sunrise wasn't more impressive! No fabulous colours or dramatic effects, or maybe I was too tired by that point to appreciate it.
Spent most of the next day knackered and trying to recover so missed a trip to the Ecuator. Will have to see if I can fit that in before I leave Ecuador. It was a quiet day and night all round with everyone feeling the after effects of the night before. To make up for it the next day I headed out to the cable car to go up to the volcano overlooking Quito with Cath and Camilla. Quito as at a pretty high altitude so the cable car took us up to a height of 4,100 metres. Just a short walk and we were getting pretty out of breath very quickly so didn't go too far. In need of acclimatisation to climb the volcano itself. Some of the lads did it the other day stupidly with no warm clothes or supplies in a blizzard. They made it but only just!
Yesterday I checked out of the hostel and moved to a hotel across the city to start my trip to the Galapagos. There didn't seem to be anyone else staying here as it was very quiet but people have been coming and going. Nothing like the hostel though I have been enjoying my own room, TV and bathroom. Luxurious compared to what I've been used to over the last few months. I had such a great night's sleep. Today I went for a briefing about volunteering. Think I'd underestimated quite how remote and tough it was going to be. Had to go out afterwards and spend more than I'd like on supplies like wellies, sleeping bag, mosquito head net etc. I hope it's not too rustic living out in the hills on the islands. I seem to be the only person heading over there at this time so I'm hoping there's a good group to hook up with already there.
It's been a challenge so far getting by on my own without speaking any Spanish. Lots of people here are having lessons and I hope I might be able to do that after my two weeks or at least try and learn as much as I can while I'm here. I had to abandon a taxi earlier as the driver and myself just couldn't communicate with each other. A simple matter of me pronouncing something in more of a French accent than a Spanish one. I hate feeling so useless.
There's no internet at the research station that I'll be working at so this may be my last post for a little while. Over and out.
Maybe people are more friendly in South America because there's safety in numbers and the language barriers, we shall have to see. Have a lot of new friends on Facebook and some people to possibly catch up with further along the line of travelling {if I get very far that is, more dosh is being eaten up at far too rapid a rate, I thought it was supposed to be cheap here!!}.
So what have I been up to since I've been here apart from partying? Went for a wander round the old town with a guy from the hostel, Darren. We'd been warned quite heavily by the staff not to wander round on our own, take taxis and not take out anything valuable. After Buenos Aires and my brush with another mugging I wasn't taking any chances. We visited a few of the old sites, went in a few churches, grabbed a locally flavoured bite to eat and did a bit of shopping round a black market shopping centre. That night everyone hung out on the rooftop terrace soaking up the views and the local booze.
A great guy Dan turned up at the hostel and kept us all entertained. We stayed up talking in the dorm and kept getting busted by the overzealous security guard. It was like being at boarding school or something. Slightly nuts but did make us laugh.
Next morning was an early start to go to the Otovalo markets a couple of hours from Quito. First we went to the animal market where all sorts of creatures were offered up by the locals. Kittens, puppies, pigs, ducks, calves, turkeys, rabbits, guinea pigs. Dread to think what was going to happen to them all. I overhead one American woman wanting to take a $15 puppy home to the US. Got some fantastic photos of some of the indigenous people though. Such amazing faces and most of them in traditional dress.
Next we went to the regular Saturday market, mostly selling souvenirs but also some food, clothes and other bits and pieces. More interesting people watching and having a laugh with Darren as he bought a luminous green cyclops woolly hat. I bought a couple of presents (ah you'll have to wait and see if you're a lucky recipient) and a little pair of earrings for myself.
Then it was time for lunch in the nearby town of Cotacachi and a visit to the Peguche waterfall. Then back to Quito for a crazy night out with a big crowd from the hostel. I managed to stay out all night and not get to bed until about 7am but it had been a mission to stay up and see the sunrise at some point on my trip. Shame the sunrise wasn't more impressive! No fabulous colours or dramatic effects, or maybe I was too tired by that point to appreciate it.
Spent most of the next day knackered and trying to recover so missed a trip to the Ecuator. Will have to see if I can fit that in before I leave Ecuador. It was a quiet day and night all round with everyone feeling the after effects of the night before. To make up for it the next day I headed out to the cable car to go up to the volcano overlooking Quito with Cath and Camilla. Quito as at a pretty high altitude so the cable car took us up to a height of 4,100 metres. Just a short walk and we were getting pretty out of breath very quickly so didn't go too far. In need of acclimatisation to climb the volcano itself. Some of the lads did it the other day stupidly with no warm clothes or supplies in a blizzard. They made it but only just!
Yesterday I checked out of the hostel and moved to a hotel across the city to start my trip to the Galapagos. There didn't seem to be anyone else staying here as it was very quiet but people have been coming and going. Nothing like the hostel though I have been enjoying my own room, TV and bathroom. Luxurious compared to what I've been used to over the last few months. I had such a great night's sleep. Today I went for a briefing about volunteering. Think I'd underestimated quite how remote and tough it was going to be. Had to go out afterwards and spend more than I'd like on supplies like wellies, sleeping bag, mosquito head net etc. I hope it's not too rustic living out in the hills on the islands. I seem to be the only person heading over there at this time so I'm hoping there's a good group to hook up with already there.
It's been a challenge so far getting by on my own without speaking any Spanish. Lots of people here are having lessons and I hope I might be able to do that after my two weeks or at least try and learn as much as I can while I'm here. I had to abandon a taxi earlier as the driver and myself just couldn't communicate with each other. A simple matter of me pronouncing something in more of a French accent than a Spanish one. I hate feeling so useless.
There's no internet at the research station that I'll be working at so this may be my last post for a little while. Over and out.
Friday, 16 September 2011
An elaborate ruse
So South America and I didn´t get off to the greatest of starts! It was an easy morning packing up my stuff and sorting my belongings out back in Auckland. Then I went back to the cinema to see Tree of Life on bargain Tuesday. Strange film, wasn´t sure about it at first, a bit overstylised and arty with lots of long, lingering shots etc. But I got into it eventually and quite enjoyed it in the end.
Then it was off to the airport to catch my flight. It´s a while since I´ve got a long haul flight without your own tv screen and I nearly panicked when I got on the plane thinking what on earth I was going to do to occupy myself for the 12-hour duration. But I chatted to the Aussie next to me and then watched some films on the big screen for everyone (though the sound was appalling). That´s what you get on a cheap flight I guess. Didn´t get much sleep though so I was pretty exhausted when I arrived in Buenos Aires.
I didn´t take to the city at first, which surprised me as I was so looking forward to going there. I caught a private bus into the city and then transferred to a taxi to find my hostel. I´d booked a place described as ´cool´ in the area of Palermo. With hindsight it would have been better staying closer to the centre as I had such a limited amount of time. Plus the hostel was really quiet with hardly anyone staying there. I had a dorm room all to myself, which under different circumstances would have been fantastic but on this occasion I really wanted to meet people to venture out into the city with. But it did at least mean that I could go straight to bed when I got there and catch up on my sleep and potter around when I woke up at 4am.
Waking so early meant that I was up and out to explore with plenty of time to cram in as much as possible. I walked to the nearest metro station and caught a train into the city centre with the commuters. The train was rammed, haven´t experienced that for a while. I wandered around for a while to find the Plaza de Mayo, the heart of the city. I was a bit nervous about flashing my camera around and I sensibly carried my rucksack on my front, aware of the perils of travelling in South America. So I stopped, took some photos and then put the camera straight back in my bag.
But this is where things took a slight turn for the worse. A couple of women approached me outside the government buildings trying to tell me in Spanish that I had something on my back. It seemed that someone had sprayed shaving foam all over my back (luckily I had my waterproof jacket on). So I took my rucksack off and put it at my feet while they helped me wipe it off. But then a third person tapped me urgently on the shoulder and distracted me pointing to something in the sky. I knew something was up and had a horrible feeling that when I turned back my bag would be gone. Which it was. I saw a man walking off in the distance so started shouting and running after him. I nearly stopped and gave up as I couldn´t quite see what he was carrying in his hands. I looked back at the women who shrugged their shoulders but looked somewhat apologetic. This somehow renewed my strength and I shouted some more and ran after him further. At this point, thankfully, he decided I was making too much of scene and dropped the bag and walked off.
By this time a couple of very kind people had stopped to help me and although we couldn´t understand each other, the lady wiped off the rest of the shaving foam and the older guy called over a policeman. The policeman and I couldn´t understand each other either so I gave up and went on my way. I was a bit shaken up but determined not to let it ruin my time there.
I took refuge in a cafe and figured out what to do next, so grateful that I still had all my belongings. Only that morning I´d wondered what on earth I´d do if I lost everything to a mugger or pickpocket! But things started looking up after I wandered down the main shopping streets (nothing like a bit of window shopping to perk me up) and decided to spend the afternoon on a bike tour of the city.
I´m so glad I did as this is when I started to fall in love with the real Buenos Aires. It was a nice group that set off on our bikes together, some English people on a Gap Adventures tour and a couple of Dutch girls. We cycled through a few of the main squares and saw the regeneration of the dock areas, very similar to many other European cities. Then we spent some time in La Boca, home of the famous football team and some very vibrant and colourful streets.
After the tour the Dutch girls and I wandered round to find a tango show and dinner to entertain ourselves for the evening. We ended up walking for ages and found this little bar in my guide book that wasn´t opening for another hour or so. So we refreshed ourselves in the quaint little cafe over the road, very atmospheric and old-fashioned. Just how I pictured the city to be. We were the only ones in the bar later apart from a guy from Hong Kong but that didn´t matter as the musicians started playing and the dancers came on to show us how the tango is really danced in the city that it originated from. It was amazing to watch and we got so excited about witnessing such a spectacle. After a few dances I got to try my hand at a few steps with the male dancer. I wasn´t too bad!
We tucked into a few glasses of my longed for Malbec and had a nice meal (not the steak I was after but ah well you can´t have everything now can you). I headed back to the hostel to grab a few hours´ sleep before heading back to the airport for two more flights taking me up to Quito, my new home for a while.
More exhausting flights later (I felt like I was on the brink of losing it by the time I got to Quito, I´d had so little sleep) and I took to Quito straight away. There´s a stunning view of the city from my fabulous hostel that came highly recommended online. The staff are great, mostly English so no language barriers here, and the residents are great fun and so easy to talk to. We had dinner and a pub quiz on the rooftop terrace last night, a great introduction.
Hoping to head out and explore the city later and then figure out what to do with the next few days before I join my group and start my volunteering in the Galapagos.
Then it was off to the airport to catch my flight. It´s a while since I´ve got a long haul flight without your own tv screen and I nearly panicked when I got on the plane thinking what on earth I was going to do to occupy myself for the 12-hour duration. But I chatted to the Aussie next to me and then watched some films on the big screen for everyone (though the sound was appalling). That´s what you get on a cheap flight I guess. Didn´t get much sleep though so I was pretty exhausted when I arrived in Buenos Aires.
I didn´t take to the city at first, which surprised me as I was so looking forward to going there. I caught a private bus into the city and then transferred to a taxi to find my hostel. I´d booked a place described as ´cool´ in the area of Palermo. With hindsight it would have been better staying closer to the centre as I had such a limited amount of time. Plus the hostel was really quiet with hardly anyone staying there. I had a dorm room all to myself, which under different circumstances would have been fantastic but on this occasion I really wanted to meet people to venture out into the city with. But it did at least mean that I could go straight to bed when I got there and catch up on my sleep and potter around when I woke up at 4am.
Waking so early meant that I was up and out to explore with plenty of time to cram in as much as possible. I walked to the nearest metro station and caught a train into the city centre with the commuters. The train was rammed, haven´t experienced that for a while. I wandered around for a while to find the Plaza de Mayo, the heart of the city. I was a bit nervous about flashing my camera around and I sensibly carried my rucksack on my front, aware of the perils of travelling in South America. So I stopped, took some photos and then put the camera straight back in my bag.
But this is where things took a slight turn for the worse. A couple of women approached me outside the government buildings trying to tell me in Spanish that I had something on my back. It seemed that someone had sprayed shaving foam all over my back (luckily I had my waterproof jacket on). So I took my rucksack off and put it at my feet while they helped me wipe it off. But then a third person tapped me urgently on the shoulder and distracted me pointing to something in the sky. I knew something was up and had a horrible feeling that when I turned back my bag would be gone. Which it was. I saw a man walking off in the distance so started shouting and running after him. I nearly stopped and gave up as I couldn´t quite see what he was carrying in his hands. I looked back at the women who shrugged their shoulders but looked somewhat apologetic. This somehow renewed my strength and I shouted some more and ran after him further. At this point, thankfully, he decided I was making too much of scene and dropped the bag and walked off.
By this time a couple of very kind people had stopped to help me and although we couldn´t understand each other, the lady wiped off the rest of the shaving foam and the older guy called over a policeman. The policeman and I couldn´t understand each other either so I gave up and went on my way. I was a bit shaken up but determined not to let it ruin my time there.
I took refuge in a cafe and figured out what to do next, so grateful that I still had all my belongings. Only that morning I´d wondered what on earth I´d do if I lost everything to a mugger or pickpocket! But things started looking up after I wandered down the main shopping streets (nothing like a bit of window shopping to perk me up) and decided to spend the afternoon on a bike tour of the city.
I´m so glad I did as this is when I started to fall in love with the real Buenos Aires. It was a nice group that set off on our bikes together, some English people on a Gap Adventures tour and a couple of Dutch girls. We cycled through a few of the main squares and saw the regeneration of the dock areas, very similar to many other European cities. Then we spent some time in La Boca, home of the famous football team and some very vibrant and colourful streets.
After the tour the Dutch girls and I wandered round to find a tango show and dinner to entertain ourselves for the evening. We ended up walking for ages and found this little bar in my guide book that wasn´t opening for another hour or so. So we refreshed ourselves in the quaint little cafe over the road, very atmospheric and old-fashioned. Just how I pictured the city to be. We were the only ones in the bar later apart from a guy from Hong Kong but that didn´t matter as the musicians started playing and the dancers came on to show us how the tango is really danced in the city that it originated from. It was amazing to watch and we got so excited about witnessing such a spectacle. After a few dances I got to try my hand at a few steps with the male dancer. I wasn´t too bad!
We tucked into a few glasses of my longed for Malbec and had a nice meal (not the steak I was after but ah well you can´t have everything now can you). I headed back to the hostel to grab a few hours´ sleep before heading back to the airport for two more flights taking me up to Quito, my new home for a while.
More exhausting flights later (I felt like I was on the brink of losing it by the time I got to Quito, I´d had so little sleep) and I took to Quito straight away. There´s a stunning view of the city from my fabulous hostel that came highly recommended online. The staff are great, mostly English so no language barriers here, and the residents are great fun and so easy to talk to. We had dinner and a pub quiz on the rooftop terrace last night, a great introduction.
Hoping to head out and explore the city later and then figure out what to do with the next few days before I join my group and start my volunteering in the Galapagos.
Monday, 12 September 2011
Waiting game
Here I am back in Auckland after another short flight from Christchurch on Sunday. Andrew and Ruth very kindly put me up again when I got back from Kaikoura and cooked me a delicious dinner. Ruth had to dash off to do a night shift at the hospital so Andrew and I settled in to watch the England game and another after that. Was exhausted knowing I had an early start in the morning.
An easy flight back up to Auckland although I felt sorry for the little kid sitting next to me. Her mother clearly had a short fuse and spent some of the time very upset about something (I didn't like to pry so just gave her a bit of privacy) but kept chastising her kid for anything and everything she did or didn't do.
Felt a bit frustrated when I got back to the hostel here in the city as I didn't really know what to do for the rest of the day. I've kind of done all the sightseeing things that I wanted to do so it's felt like I'm just killing time for a couple of days before I fly out. The weather has been pretty rubbish raining most of the time too although the sun seems to be shining today. So I had a lazy afternoon finishing my book and then headed off to the cinema in the evening to keep myself entertained. Saw 'The Help' which was quite a sweet film.
Yesterday I did some shopping for a few bits and pieces I need while I can buy them in a Westernised country and then paid a visit to the newly reopened art gallery (it wasn't finished when I was here before). A stunning building with lots of open spaces and light streaming in the large glass windows with an interesting collection of modern New Zealand art, as well as some older stuff that I'm never that bothered about! Although the Maori portraits were worth a look.
Last night Nikki and Neal took me out for a farewell dinner to a restaurant that we tried to go to before but was too busy with a quiz night. Lovely to see them again and catch up. I was reacquainted with all the summer stuff that I'd left with them and did wonder how I was going to fit it all back in my rucksack! But this morning's packing has managed to squeeze all that I should possibly need in. Rucksack weighs a tonne though. Can't really figure out what the weather is going to be like until I get there so covering all bases on the clothing front.
Few bits and bobs to do today and then I might take myself back to the cinema to occupy myself until I need to get to the airport. Buenos Aires beckons. Going to have to cram it all in when I get there as I'm not there for long but a tango lesson, steak and a glass of Malbec are definitely on the cards.
An easy flight back up to Auckland although I felt sorry for the little kid sitting next to me. Her mother clearly had a short fuse and spent some of the time very upset about something (I didn't like to pry so just gave her a bit of privacy) but kept chastising her kid for anything and everything she did or didn't do.
Felt a bit frustrated when I got back to the hostel here in the city as I didn't really know what to do for the rest of the day. I've kind of done all the sightseeing things that I wanted to do so it's felt like I'm just killing time for a couple of days before I fly out. The weather has been pretty rubbish raining most of the time too although the sun seems to be shining today. So I had a lazy afternoon finishing my book and then headed off to the cinema in the evening to keep myself entertained. Saw 'The Help' which was quite a sweet film.
Yesterday I did some shopping for a few bits and pieces I need while I can buy them in a Westernised country and then paid a visit to the newly reopened art gallery (it wasn't finished when I was here before). A stunning building with lots of open spaces and light streaming in the large glass windows with an interesting collection of modern New Zealand art, as well as some older stuff that I'm never that bothered about! Although the Maori portraits were worth a look.
Last night Nikki and Neal took me out for a farewell dinner to a restaurant that we tried to go to before but was too busy with a quiz night. Lovely to see them again and catch up. I was reacquainted with all the summer stuff that I'd left with them and did wonder how I was going to fit it all back in my rucksack! But this morning's packing has managed to squeeze all that I should possibly need in. Rucksack weighs a tonne though. Can't really figure out what the weather is going to be like until I get there so covering all bases on the clothing front.
Few bits and bobs to do today and then I might take myself back to the cinema to occupy myself until I need to get to the airport. Buenos Aires beckons. Going to have to cram it all in when I get there as I'm not there for long but a tango lesson, steak and a glass of Malbec are definitely on the cards.
Friday, 9 September 2011
Fever pitch
Just watched the All Blacks play the opening game of the Rugby World Cup. It's pretty awesome to be here in New Zealand as it all kicks off though would have been even better to be in Auckland to see the opening ceremony or all the events round the city. Looked pretty spectacular on the TV but would have cost me a fortune so maybe I'm better off here in Kaikoura after all!
So the last time I posted online I was holed up in the dead-end town of Invercargill. The only thing it's good for is a route to Stewart Island, the southern-most tip of New Zealand with nothing else between you and Antarctica. But I didn't have enough time to pay a visit with the way the buses worked out unfortunately so most of us were stuck in the industrial town that only seemed to have the fastest Indian (cast your minds back to the actual event or the Anthony Hopkins film a few years ago) as a tourist attraction to visit. As I was still recovering from the excesses of Queenstown I refrained from going out and just tucked myself up in the TV room with a heater and the first Lord of the Rings film. It was good to see some of the places that I've visited on the big screen (well, small screen really it was just a crappy TV in a hostel after all).
But I've missed out another interesting place on my travels - Gunn's Camp. We headed there after Queenstown and boy was it a different story. We were out in the middle of nowhere with nothing but a ridiculous number of sandflies to keep us company and no mains electricity. It is apparently the last remaining workers' camp in New Zealand and it is like being transported back to the 1930s. The site houses a little museum as monument to the work that went on tunnelling through from Te Anau to Milford Sound through the Homer Tunnel.
We had a coal stove to keep us warm at night but of course we didn't manage to keep the fire going and woke up absolutely freezing cold. As it was an early start none of us braved the showers - you might as well have just been outside what warmth the thin walls brought you. But it was kind of quaint and cute in its own special way. But I'm glad we only stayed one night. Much more impressive in the summer I'm sure but I think you might get eaten alive by the sandflies.
We moved on to Dunedin after that but not before we'd stopped at a few blustery, chilly places to take some pics and hide out hoping to spot a yellow-eyed penguin or two. We were in luck as one solitary little fellow came waddling up the beach and headed for a sheltered spot not too far from the hide. Some of the others had given up by this point having already waited for over 40 minutes but I'm glad I persevered. We weren't so lucky with the sealions earlier in the day but I guess these wildlife experiences can't be guaranteed.
Shortly after arriving in Dunedin, a bit of a university town although the students were on holiday at the time, we headed off to the Speight's brewery for a tour of the retro site and a spot of sampling the famous ale. It was great to see the place so untouched for so many years despite fires and many other breweries folding over the years. We were joined by a rugby team on tour from Wellington who were all dressed up in bad taste clothes that they managed to pick up from who-knows-where.
Having felt a bit older than the rest of the crowd it was entertaining to hear the others' disdain at feeling so old in a bar/club full of what seemed like 16-year-olds. I chuckled to myself at the thought of them feeling ancient.
The next day we headed off to Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest peak. When I started reading what to do in the country way back in February before I left I really wanted to climb the mountain but I think it's best left to the proper mountaineers. Also I couldn't get any extra time there to do any longer walks as the buses behind ours were all fully booked for a while. So I settled for a short walk when we arrived to see the glacier and get a better look of the peak (unfortunately shrouded in a bit too much cloud). The hostel was probably the best we'd stayed in, more like a proper hotel. We settled in for a quietish night playing cards and knocking back a few cheeky wines.
The following day we drove to a few stunning lakes and then went snow tubing on what little snow was left in the area. It was great feeling like a kid again heading up the slope with a big tube and as the guys looking after the place abandoned us for a few gos we all joined up and went down in threes and fours (which they probably wouldn't have let us do), picking up a good bit of thrilling speed as we went.
That night we stayed in another pretty good place in Rangitata (apart from the communal showers, something we've not come across before). The hostel owner had made us a huge, sticky chocolate pudding and our driver bought some cream so we indulged ourselves on our final night together with those of us remaining from the original group before separating later the next day in Christchurch. Most cards ensued with our bellies full.
It was good to catch up with some friends in Christchurch, Ruth and Andrew who I met on the cycling trip in Thailand. Ruth picked me up in her Porsche Boxster which felt like a huge departure from my previous modes of transport. I even had the luxury of taking it for a spin later that day as we headed out to the epicentre of the earthquake, Lyttleton.
At first you can kid yourself that Christchurch is just a normal city or that it's doing a good job of picking itself up after the devastation it's suffered over the last year. But then you start to notice driving around the cracks in the pavements, how terrible the roads are, the houses that have simply slid off the cliff faces and the shipping containers that are the only barrier between you and the subsiding cliffs. Many a garden wall is propped up by lines of wooden supports and loose tiles are lined up along half-missing roofs. But the people are soldiering on and shops, cafes and businesses have sprung up in makeshift premises outside the city centre.
It's hard to imagine quite how terrifying it must have been though, with Ruth and Andrew describing how they clung to each other in the doorway of the first earthquake last September and how Andrew struggled to get himself out to the garden when the big one struck in February. And then had to go to the hospital where Ruth works to check if she was ok. As I lay in my makeshift bed in the lounge last night I wondered how I would react should any such tremors occur while I'm here.
As Andrew is an experienced climber, he took me out to Arthur's Pass the other day to do a very full-on climb/walk up Avalanche Peak. Having struggled with my fitness on a few shorter walks lately I wasn't sure how I'd fare doing something more energetic. But I surprised myself by steaming up the first part (Andrew may not have thought so but it was quicker than I expected my pace to be up such an ascent) until we reached the top of the treeline, with me sweating buckets despite the snow and chilly breeze. We had amazing views as we trekked up, at times waist-deep in snow with our ice axes should we slip. I've not done anything quite so technical before but I put my trust in someone who knew what they were doing. I did doubt myself at times and tried not to look either side of me when perched vicariously on a narrow ridge.
We were joined by the odd Kea or two, the only alpine parrot in the world. Very inquisitive and known to rip off bits of rubber from vehicles in car parks. But it had the most amazing feathers under its wingspan when it takes off.
Following our energetic day, the next day was spent mostly chilling out in front of the tv, with a short walk to the supermarket to give Ruth a bit of peace and quiet while studying. Today I headed off on my last stretch on the Stray bus to Kaikoura for the whale watching that I promised myself when I didn't go in Australia. Another rough boat ride with me feeling pretty queasy at times but we saw two sperm whale and got some good shots of their tales flipping up as they dove into the depths of the sea.
Tomorrow it's back to Christchurch before I fly back up to Auckland for a couple of days. Then, unbelievably it seems at the moment, I fly off to South America for the final phase of my trip. How has it come around so quickly? Been thinking about home more as reality seems ebbing ever closer...
So the last time I posted online I was holed up in the dead-end town of Invercargill. The only thing it's good for is a route to Stewart Island, the southern-most tip of New Zealand with nothing else between you and Antarctica. But I didn't have enough time to pay a visit with the way the buses worked out unfortunately so most of us were stuck in the industrial town that only seemed to have the fastest Indian (cast your minds back to the actual event or the Anthony Hopkins film a few years ago) as a tourist attraction to visit. As I was still recovering from the excesses of Queenstown I refrained from going out and just tucked myself up in the TV room with a heater and the first Lord of the Rings film. It was good to see some of the places that I've visited on the big screen (well, small screen really it was just a crappy TV in a hostel after all).
But I've missed out another interesting place on my travels - Gunn's Camp. We headed there after Queenstown and boy was it a different story. We were out in the middle of nowhere with nothing but a ridiculous number of sandflies to keep us company and no mains electricity. It is apparently the last remaining workers' camp in New Zealand and it is like being transported back to the 1930s. The site houses a little museum as monument to the work that went on tunnelling through from Te Anau to Milford Sound through the Homer Tunnel.
We had a coal stove to keep us warm at night but of course we didn't manage to keep the fire going and woke up absolutely freezing cold. As it was an early start none of us braved the showers - you might as well have just been outside what warmth the thin walls brought you. But it was kind of quaint and cute in its own special way. But I'm glad we only stayed one night. Much more impressive in the summer I'm sure but I think you might get eaten alive by the sandflies.
We moved on to Dunedin after that but not before we'd stopped at a few blustery, chilly places to take some pics and hide out hoping to spot a yellow-eyed penguin or two. We were in luck as one solitary little fellow came waddling up the beach and headed for a sheltered spot not too far from the hide. Some of the others had given up by this point having already waited for over 40 minutes but I'm glad I persevered. We weren't so lucky with the sealions earlier in the day but I guess these wildlife experiences can't be guaranteed.
Shortly after arriving in Dunedin, a bit of a university town although the students were on holiday at the time, we headed off to the Speight's brewery for a tour of the retro site and a spot of sampling the famous ale. It was great to see the place so untouched for so many years despite fires and many other breweries folding over the years. We were joined by a rugby team on tour from Wellington who were all dressed up in bad taste clothes that they managed to pick up from who-knows-where.
Having felt a bit older than the rest of the crowd it was entertaining to hear the others' disdain at feeling so old in a bar/club full of what seemed like 16-year-olds. I chuckled to myself at the thought of them feeling ancient.
The next day we headed off to Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest peak. When I started reading what to do in the country way back in February before I left I really wanted to climb the mountain but I think it's best left to the proper mountaineers. Also I couldn't get any extra time there to do any longer walks as the buses behind ours were all fully booked for a while. So I settled for a short walk when we arrived to see the glacier and get a better look of the peak (unfortunately shrouded in a bit too much cloud). The hostel was probably the best we'd stayed in, more like a proper hotel. We settled in for a quietish night playing cards and knocking back a few cheeky wines.
The following day we drove to a few stunning lakes and then went snow tubing on what little snow was left in the area. It was great feeling like a kid again heading up the slope with a big tube and as the guys looking after the place abandoned us for a few gos we all joined up and went down in threes and fours (which they probably wouldn't have let us do), picking up a good bit of thrilling speed as we went.
That night we stayed in another pretty good place in Rangitata (apart from the communal showers, something we've not come across before). The hostel owner had made us a huge, sticky chocolate pudding and our driver bought some cream so we indulged ourselves on our final night together with those of us remaining from the original group before separating later the next day in Christchurch. Most cards ensued with our bellies full.
It was good to catch up with some friends in Christchurch, Ruth and Andrew who I met on the cycling trip in Thailand. Ruth picked me up in her Porsche Boxster which felt like a huge departure from my previous modes of transport. I even had the luxury of taking it for a spin later that day as we headed out to the epicentre of the earthquake, Lyttleton.
At first you can kid yourself that Christchurch is just a normal city or that it's doing a good job of picking itself up after the devastation it's suffered over the last year. But then you start to notice driving around the cracks in the pavements, how terrible the roads are, the houses that have simply slid off the cliff faces and the shipping containers that are the only barrier between you and the subsiding cliffs. Many a garden wall is propped up by lines of wooden supports and loose tiles are lined up along half-missing roofs. But the people are soldiering on and shops, cafes and businesses have sprung up in makeshift premises outside the city centre.
It's hard to imagine quite how terrifying it must have been though, with Ruth and Andrew describing how they clung to each other in the doorway of the first earthquake last September and how Andrew struggled to get himself out to the garden when the big one struck in February. And then had to go to the hospital where Ruth works to check if she was ok. As I lay in my makeshift bed in the lounge last night I wondered how I would react should any such tremors occur while I'm here.
As Andrew is an experienced climber, he took me out to Arthur's Pass the other day to do a very full-on climb/walk up Avalanche Peak. Having struggled with my fitness on a few shorter walks lately I wasn't sure how I'd fare doing something more energetic. But I surprised myself by steaming up the first part (Andrew may not have thought so but it was quicker than I expected my pace to be up such an ascent) until we reached the top of the treeline, with me sweating buckets despite the snow and chilly breeze. We had amazing views as we trekked up, at times waist-deep in snow with our ice axes should we slip. I've not done anything quite so technical before but I put my trust in someone who knew what they were doing. I did doubt myself at times and tried not to look either side of me when perched vicariously on a narrow ridge.
We were joined by the odd Kea or two, the only alpine parrot in the world. Very inquisitive and known to rip off bits of rubber from vehicles in car parks. But it had the most amazing feathers under its wingspan when it takes off.
Following our energetic day, the next day was spent mostly chilling out in front of the tv, with a short walk to the supermarket to give Ruth a bit of peace and quiet while studying. Today I headed off on my last stretch on the Stray bus to Kaikoura for the whale watching that I promised myself when I didn't go in Australia. Another rough boat ride with me feeling pretty queasy at times but we saw two sperm whale and got some good shots of their tales flipping up as they dove into the depths of the sea.
Tomorrow it's back to Christchurch before I fly back up to Auckland for a couple of days. Then, unbelievably it seems at the moment, I fly off to South America for the final phase of my trip. How has it come around so quickly? Been thinking about home more as reality seems ebbing ever closer...
Friday, 2 September 2011
Broken. In need of fixing.
So Queenstown was pretty much the party place I thought it was going to be. It was so good to be in one place for a few days, the longest I've spent anywhere since Auckland when I first arrived. And to spend it with a bunch of people has been fun. Although we were spread out in different hostels we kept in touch through texts and bumping into each other in such a small town.
I think I'm a bit broken now though! Too many late nights and pub crawls. I've picked up Hannah's lurgy, one of the girls I was sharing a room with and now have a lovely sore throat and a few aches and pains. But hopefully a bit of paracetomol and a couple of early nights will fix that and I'll be right as rain in no time. No time to dwell on being ill after all.
So what else did I get up to in Queenstown apart from partying I'm sure you're wondering? A few of the girls and I went up in the cable car to take in the amazing views of the surrounding mountains and lakes. The photos look positively unreal, as if you're standing in front of some fake backdrop. Then we had a laugh doing a few luge runs down the mountainside, trying to race each other and get a group photo taken near the finish line. It reminded me of being a kid in the little cars we used to ride on the beach somewhere in Devon (was it Woollacombe?). Except this was a bit quicker on the old downhill run.
The next day Kate and I went on a walk to Frankton about 9km around Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown. Although the town (or is it the top of the mountains, I'm not sure) is over 1500 metres above sea level, the bottom of the lake is below sea level so it's pretty deep in places. But everywhere you go in New Zealand the water is so clear.
Later we met up with Hannah and Micki and caught the bus over to Arrowtown, a beautifully quaint little place reminiscent of a wild west town. It was a goldmining town originally and looks like it with all the little shops and buildings. A great place to stop for lunch or a beer in the warmth of the sunshine. We did lots of cooing about how cute it was and all the photo opportunities.
That night we went on an organised pub crawl as it was meant to be cheap drinks and a bit of food thrown in. The things you'll do when money is tight and you want to have fun eh! It was a good laugh and Hannah and I won a dance off at our third or fourth bar. I was pretty chuffed that I could show these youngsters a few crazy retro moves. I think I surprised a few people! I did a bit like I'd gone back to school when by the end of the evening most of the group had pulled some random stranger. There were a few sore heads the next morning but I felt surprisingly sprightly. So after wandering round the shops and the lake to take a few more photos I headed to the information centre to book some kind of activity that would occupy my time for the afternoon.
I had left it a bit too late to go skiing, not having sorted out any gear hire or lift pass or anything but I spotted a leaflet for snow shoeing and thought that would be the next best thing. Some fresh air, a trip up the mountain and some stunning views to make the most of the area and its beauty. So what is snow shoeing you may ask? It had the rest of my group stumped but it is what it seems really, walking in the snow with something a bit more useful on your feet than tennis rackets. Kind of a cross between a crampon and a mini ski. It was a small group with our lovely kiwi guide and two French-speaking women from New Caledonia (I had to ask where that was as I was unsure).
We headed up to the Remarkables snow fields and walked up the slopes until we managed to get off piste and headed for a frozen lake where they filmed a scene from Lord of the Rings (you can't go too far in New Zealand without going somewhere near a scene from the film). We then explored some little snow caves that some school kids had built and slept in a week or so ago. Then when we headed back down in the bitterly icy winds the snow field was closed and we had the whole place to ourselves. It was beautiful and I'm so glad I did it, although I did wish that I'd sorted out some skiing and given it a go again.
After another night out to say goodbye to the rest of the group it was time to head off on the bus again with about half the previous volume of travellers. Nice to be in a smaller group for a while and get to know some of them a bit better. We headed off to Fiordland for a boat trip in the Milford Sound, something I was looking forward to. But I think all the late nights caught up with all of us and we were a bit underwhelmed or maybe it was just the cold weather encouraging us to head below deck for the free tea and coffee. But we did see penguins, dolphins and seals on the way back to the dock. The waterfalls and mountains were stunning, as was the drive from Queenstown where was a lot of snow along the way.
I felt a little overwhelmed by the huge busloads of tourists (mostly Asian) as soon as we hit the road to Milford Sound and I felt like I was back in China, the last place that felt so crazy busy with people. Everywhere else has been pretty quiet in the winter. So it was odd to be surrounded.
I think I'm a bit broken now though! Too many late nights and pub crawls. I've picked up Hannah's lurgy, one of the girls I was sharing a room with and now have a lovely sore throat and a few aches and pains. But hopefully a bit of paracetomol and a couple of early nights will fix that and I'll be right as rain in no time. No time to dwell on being ill after all.
So what else did I get up to in Queenstown apart from partying I'm sure you're wondering? A few of the girls and I went up in the cable car to take in the amazing views of the surrounding mountains and lakes. The photos look positively unreal, as if you're standing in front of some fake backdrop. Then we had a laugh doing a few luge runs down the mountainside, trying to race each other and get a group photo taken near the finish line. It reminded me of being a kid in the little cars we used to ride on the beach somewhere in Devon (was it Woollacombe?). Except this was a bit quicker on the old downhill run.
The next day Kate and I went on a walk to Frankton about 9km around Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown. Although the town (or is it the top of the mountains, I'm not sure) is over 1500 metres above sea level, the bottom of the lake is below sea level so it's pretty deep in places. But everywhere you go in New Zealand the water is so clear.
Later we met up with Hannah and Micki and caught the bus over to Arrowtown, a beautifully quaint little place reminiscent of a wild west town. It was a goldmining town originally and looks like it with all the little shops and buildings. A great place to stop for lunch or a beer in the warmth of the sunshine. We did lots of cooing about how cute it was and all the photo opportunities.
That night we went on an organised pub crawl as it was meant to be cheap drinks and a bit of food thrown in. The things you'll do when money is tight and you want to have fun eh! It was a good laugh and Hannah and I won a dance off at our third or fourth bar. I was pretty chuffed that I could show these youngsters a few crazy retro moves. I think I surprised a few people! I did a bit like I'd gone back to school when by the end of the evening most of the group had pulled some random stranger. There were a few sore heads the next morning but I felt surprisingly sprightly. So after wandering round the shops and the lake to take a few more photos I headed to the information centre to book some kind of activity that would occupy my time for the afternoon.
I had left it a bit too late to go skiing, not having sorted out any gear hire or lift pass or anything but I spotted a leaflet for snow shoeing and thought that would be the next best thing. Some fresh air, a trip up the mountain and some stunning views to make the most of the area and its beauty. So what is snow shoeing you may ask? It had the rest of my group stumped but it is what it seems really, walking in the snow with something a bit more useful on your feet than tennis rackets. Kind of a cross between a crampon and a mini ski. It was a small group with our lovely kiwi guide and two French-speaking women from New Caledonia (I had to ask where that was as I was unsure).
We headed up to the Remarkables snow fields and walked up the slopes until we managed to get off piste and headed for a frozen lake where they filmed a scene from Lord of the Rings (you can't go too far in New Zealand without going somewhere near a scene from the film). We then explored some little snow caves that some school kids had built and slept in a week or so ago. Then when we headed back down in the bitterly icy winds the snow field was closed and we had the whole place to ourselves. It was beautiful and I'm so glad I did it, although I did wish that I'd sorted out some skiing and given it a go again.
After another night out to say goodbye to the rest of the group it was time to head off on the bus again with about half the previous volume of travellers. Nice to be in a smaller group for a while and get to know some of them a bit better. We headed off to Fiordland for a boat trip in the Milford Sound, something I was looking forward to. But I think all the late nights caught up with all of us and we were a bit underwhelmed or maybe it was just the cold weather encouraging us to head below deck for the free tea and coffee. But we did see penguins, dolphins and seals on the way back to the dock. The waterfalls and mountains were stunning, as was the drive from Queenstown where was a lot of snow along the way.
I felt a little overwhelmed by the huge busloads of tourists (mostly Asian) as soon as we hit the road to Milford Sound and I felt like I was back in China, the last place that felt so crazy busy with people. Everywhere else has been pretty quiet in the winter. So it was odd to be surrounded.
Saturday, 27 August 2011
Scenic south
Feels like ages since I've posted online, I guess it's been a week but it feels like about three. We've strayed quite far and done so much it seems in such a short space of time. I feel like I'm overusing the words 'stunning', 'beautiful', 'awesome' etc but there really aren't enough words in my vocabulary to express it any better just how incredible the South Island is to explore. Where the North is quaint and pretty with rolling hills (as well as the occasional huge mountain), the South is much more rugged, on a grander scale and the scenery is more breathtaking.
We arrived in Queenstown this afternoon and have already fallen in love with the place. I could stay here a long time, spend a lot of money and do so much. But even to just sit and admire the awesome location from a cafe sipping tea/hot chocolate/wine/beer (edit as you see fit) would be enough for a couple of days. It is very much an adrenaline junkie town with the options of skiing, snowboarding, and the usual bungy jumping, skydiving, hang gliding, paragliding etc. But there's plenty for the more sedate with trips to the wineries, walking, mountain biking. I think I'm going to be hard pushed to decide between it all. But we've got four nights here, the longest I will have spent anywhere for a few weeks. I'm going to soak it all up and make the most of it (without bankrupting myself hopefully).
So what on earth have I been up to in the last week? Well, there's been sea kayaking in the Abel Tasman national park. It was a beautiful day and we saw several seals sunning themselves on the rocks as we paddled by a couple of islands. It wasn't too much hard work for a full day of kayaking as the sea was just mill-pond calm. And so clear you could see so far to the deep bottom. It was a pretty relaxing day just taking it at a nice slow pace and enjoying the sunshine. Got totally soaked though, perhaps I need a better technique with the paddling so as not to get seawater dripping all down your arms.
I've also spent the day hiking the Franz Josef Glacier, one of the top things on my list while I'm here. Never having done any ice hiking I was intrigued to see how tough it would be and how unique the ice formations would be. I wasn't disappointed. Photo-wise we could have done with a sunnier day to really distinguish between the sky and the ice but I managed to get some good shots of ice caves and lakes. It also helped to have a very fit guide (in more ways than one) from Alaska!
Other than that my days have been filled having a laugh with my new-found travelling companions and spending a lot of time getting from one place to another with several scenic stops in between. We seem to have themes for the day (unintentionally I think) of either lakes, waterfalls or mountains to stop and photograph when in need of a break to stretch our legs.
The great thing about travelling this way with such a great bunch of people is the ready-made social life in the evening, even if you're stuck in a dead-end town (like Greymouth) or in the middle of nowhere (like Makarora). We've stayed in some really nice places, accommodation wise, and then some not so. In Abel Tasman we were staying on a farm in little cabins that were really only suited to summer temperatures! Showering practically outdoors in the middle of winter isn't always my idea of fun though it toughens you up pretty quickly.
Greymouth was very much a man's town, probably because of all the mining going on there but it was strange to see most of the people walking round the hostel were middle-aged guys, a bit of a contrast to elsewhere on the backpacker trail.
We've had a pretty packed bus most of the way, despite buses either side of ours having much fewer numbers. Just the way it works I guess but despite the lack of space to put your stuff and not being able to stretch out it's not been a hindrance or annoyance at all. But the group is getting split up from now on which is a shame as people are spending different amounts of time here in Queenstown and then doing different passes round the rest of the island from here on in. So we've got a last night out together in the best party town in New Zealand. It could get messy!
We arrived in Queenstown this afternoon and have already fallen in love with the place. I could stay here a long time, spend a lot of money and do so much. But even to just sit and admire the awesome location from a cafe sipping tea/hot chocolate/wine/beer (edit as you see fit) would be enough for a couple of days. It is very much an adrenaline junkie town with the options of skiing, snowboarding, and the usual bungy jumping, skydiving, hang gliding, paragliding etc. But there's plenty for the more sedate with trips to the wineries, walking, mountain biking. I think I'm going to be hard pushed to decide between it all. But we've got four nights here, the longest I will have spent anywhere for a few weeks. I'm going to soak it all up and make the most of it (without bankrupting myself hopefully).
So what on earth have I been up to in the last week? Well, there's been sea kayaking in the Abel Tasman national park. It was a beautiful day and we saw several seals sunning themselves on the rocks as we paddled by a couple of islands. It wasn't too much hard work for a full day of kayaking as the sea was just mill-pond calm. And so clear you could see so far to the deep bottom. It was a pretty relaxing day just taking it at a nice slow pace and enjoying the sunshine. Got totally soaked though, perhaps I need a better technique with the paddling so as not to get seawater dripping all down your arms.
I've also spent the day hiking the Franz Josef Glacier, one of the top things on my list while I'm here. Never having done any ice hiking I was intrigued to see how tough it would be and how unique the ice formations would be. I wasn't disappointed. Photo-wise we could have done with a sunnier day to really distinguish between the sky and the ice but I managed to get some good shots of ice caves and lakes. It also helped to have a very fit guide (in more ways than one) from Alaska!
Other than that my days have been filled having a laugh with my new-found travelling companions and spending a lot of time getting from one place to another with several scenic stops in between. We seem to have themes for the day (unintentionally I think) of either lakes, waterfalls or mountains to stop and photograph when in need of a break to stretch our legs.
The great thing about travelling this way with such a great bunch of people is the ready-made social life in the evening, even if you're stuck in a dead-end town (like Greymouth) or in the middle of nowhere (like Makarora). We've stayed in some really nice places, accommodation wise, and then some not so. In Abel Tasman we were staying on a farm in little cabins that were really only suited to summer temperatures! Showering practically outdoors in the middle of winter isn't always my idea of fun though it toughens you up pretty quickly.
Greymouth was very much a man's town, probably because of all the mining going on there but it was strange to see most of the people walking round the hostel were middle-aged guys, a bit of a contrast to elsewhere on the backpacker trail.
We've had a pretty packed bus most of the way, despite buses either side of ours having much fewer numbers. Just the way it works I guess but despite the lack of space to put your stuff and not being able to stretch out it's not been a hindrance or annoyance at all. But the group is getting split up from now on which is a shame as people are spending different amounts of time here in Queenstown and then doing different passes round the rest of the island from here on in. So we've got a last night out together in the best party town in New Zealand. It could get messy!
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Get into the groove
Location: Marlborough Sounds, South Island, New Zealand.
Weather: Sun, sun and more sun. Beautiful.
Stunning, stunning, stunning, awesome, breathtaking, a sight to behold. That's all I have to say.
Except that this girl has got her groove back!
Weather: Sun, sun and more sun. Beautiful.
Stunning, stunning, stunning, awesome, breathtaking, a sight to behold. That's all I have to say.
Except that this girl has got her groove back!
Friday, 19 August 2011
Windy welly
Not quite so windy today luckily but I can see why it has the nickname it does, as soon as I stepped outside the airport it was blowing a full-on gale. I am liking the city though, very smart and compact. It is very hilly so most of the residential areas are built up on the hillsides and the more affluent residents have their own mini cable cars to take them from their garages up to the main house - alright for some!
I've been here a couple of days now and have crammed in as much as possible in the short time that I've been here. Yesterday I went on a little bus tour of the city. It ended up being an exclusive ride as I was the only one on the hop-on, hop-off tour. I went to Katherine Mansfield's birthplace first, probably New Zealand's most famous author, part of the Bloomsbury set (she spent a lot of time in England). A very quaint little house that has been restored to how it could have been, based on photographs and descriptions in Mansfield's books and short stories for which she was famous.
I then headed off to Parliament for a free tour around the old and new buildings that house the nation's government. There are many similarities with Westminster, unsurprisingly given the country's colonial roots. The tour also included an insight into the building's state-of-the-art system of strengthening should another big earthquake strike the city. The base isolation system means that the whole building rests on over 400 rubber (among other materials) pillars rather than brick.
Today I continued my bus tour and took in the lookout point on top of Mount Victoria, a stunning view of most of the city and it's many hills and mountains; plus the Weta Cave, where the effects and sets for Lord of the Rings and many other major Hollywood films have been made. Amazing how many big budgets pics they've been involved with over the last few years. They have one of the four largest computer networks in the world, bigger than NASA (that one's for you Dad!).
As the weather cleared up nicely by lunchtime (it's been pretty gloomy and miserable since I arrived) I took the very quaint cable car above the CBD and then walked back down through the Botanical Gardens. I then finished off the afternoon by continuing my tour of Wellington's large museum, Te Papa, after a walk along the waterfront. I started the tour the evening that I arrived as they had a late opening but it's so vast that you need at least a couple of visits to do it justice.
I am thoroughly enjoying my travels again after my dip at the beginning of the week, helped by finally having a proper night out after what seems like a lot of staying in. I accosted an English girl called Charly in the kitchens last night and started what seemed like an awkward conversation at first as I couldn't think of an organic opener. A few months ago I probably would have bottled it but slightly desperate for some proper conversation and the possibility of socialising with a like-minded person won out over any embarassment. So we chatted over a bottle of wine and then headed out to meet some friends that she'd made on the same bus tour that I'm due to embark on after the weekend. So I'm really looking forward to hopefully making some more new friends over the coming weeks. 'Bout time too!
Looks like I might get a proper weekend by going out with her and another friend tonight too. It's a proper student lifestyle with limited funds of having a few drinks before going out late. Oh how things have regressed but it's all worth it (most of the time).
Getting the ferry across the Cook Strait tomorrow to arrive in Picton for the start of my South Island tour on Monday. Hoping I can fit in a nice walk somewhere tomorrow. It's an early start though so I'd better behave myself tonight. Don't want another boat trip of seasick suffering...
I've been here a couple of days now and have crammed in as much as possible in the short time that I've been here. Yesterday I went on a little bus tour of the city. It ended up being an exclusive ride as I was the only one on the hop-on, hop-off tour. I went to Katherine Mansfield's birthplace first, probably New Zealand's most famous author, part of the Bloomsbury set (she spent a lot of time in England). A very quaint little house that has been restored to how it could have been, based on photographs and descriptions in Mansfield's books and short stories for which she was famous.
I then headed off to Parliament for a free tour around the old and new buildings that house the nation's government. There are many similarities with Westminster, unsurprisingly given the country's colonial roots. The tour also included an insight into the building's state-of-the-art system of strengthening should another big earthquake strike the city. The base isolation system means that the whole building rests on over 400 rubber (among other materials) pillars rather than brick.
Today I continued my bus tour and took in the lookout point on top of Mount Victoria, a stunning view of most of the city and it's many hills and mountains; plus the Weta Cave, where the effects and sets for Lord of the Rings and many other major Hollywood films have been made. Amazing how many big budgets pics they've been involved with over the last few years. They have one of the four largest computer networks in the world, bigger than NASA (that one's for you Dad!).
As the weather cleared up nicely by lunchtime (it's been pretty gloomy and miserable since I arrived) I took the very quaint cable car above the CBD and then walked back down through the Botanical Gardens. I then finished off the afternoon by continuing my tour of Wellington's large museum, Te Papa, after a walk along the waterfront. I started the tour the evening that I arrived as they had a late opening but it's so vast that you need at least a couple of visits to do it justice.
I am thoroughly enjoying my travels again after my dip at the beginning of the week, helped by finally having a proper night out after what seems like a lot of staying in. I accosted an English girl called Charly in the kitchens last night and started what seemed like an awkward conversation at first as I couldn't think of an organic opener. A few months ago I probably would have bottled it but slightly desperate for some proper conversation and the possibility of socialising with a like-minded person won out over any embarassment. So we chatted over a bottle of wine and then headed out to meet some friends that she'd made on the same bus tour that I'm due to embark on after the weekend. So I'm really looking forward to hopefully making some more new friends over the coming weeks. 'Bout time too!
Looks like I might get a proper weekend by going out with her and another friend tonight too. It's a proper student lifestyle with limited funds of having a few drinks before going out late. Oh how things have regressed but it's all worth it (most of the time).
Getting the ferry across the Cook Strait tomorrow to arrive in Picton for the start of my South Island tour on Monday. Hoping I can fit in a nice walk somewhere tomorrow. It's an early start though so I'd better behave myself tonight. Don't want another boat trip of seasick suffering...
Wednesday, 17 August 2011
Scuppered by the snow
News may have reached you all halfway across the world that New Zealand is in the grip of the coldest winter for 80 years and Auckland even had the coldest day on record a few days ago. Yes, aren't I lucky to be here in such wintery temperatures!! Actually it isn't that bad to be honest, up here in the North Island it isn't as cold as it would be for snow in England. That seems weird but I've been far colder all trussed up walking to work in London when we've had the heavy snow over the past couple of years than I am over here.
But it does mean that plans have to be a little fluid at the moment to tie in with whatever the weather is doing. Mountain biking take two was scuppered yet again, this time because of the snow and ice rather than the rain the day before. Really wanted to get back out on the bike and test out the NZ tracks but t'was not to be. I also cancelled the white water rafting that I'd booked as I really didn't fancy being frozen to the bone in an icy river. Wimping out again I know. The guy on the phone tried to persuade me that 20 people were out on the river as we spoke but I wasn't buying it.
Instead I headed off for my first sighting of a native kiwi (not the human kind but the real avian variety). At Rainbow Springs wildlife park they had a kiwi encounter that took you through the hatching process and then you got to see three resident birds in the sanctuary. You would not believe how huge their eggs are compared to the size of the bird, poor things. But the females get to do a runner straight after they've hatched and the males have to do all the hard work after that. If only that translated into human life I can think of a few female friends that might be happier!
I then drove through the stunning countryside yet again to reach the Hobbiton movie set for a tour of the little hobbit houses from Lord of the Rings on my way to Tauranga, my home for the night. It was great fun getting the tour of the land, if a little chilly out in the icy wind. First the tour guide had to get rid of a couple of errant sheep who'd infiltrated the set. Now I'm sworn to secrecy on the details having signed a confidentiality agreement but I have seen some new sets for the upcoming Hobbit film, which they haven't started filming yet. There were lots of warnings about not ruining or touching anything otherwise the whole operation might be shut down. But we all behaved ourselves, took lots of pictures and then went on our merry way.
I was feeling pretty knackered with a massive headache by the time I got to my hostel for the night. This wasn't helped by the unfriendly atmosphere in the place and the inhabitants all seemed a bit strange. So it wasn't a great night, especially when the water was off in the morning and I couldn't even have a shower. Was feeling a bit low and fed up with crap hostels and being a bit lonely on the road. However, just when you are feeling like that you then rock up to another place and it's completely the opposite.
After breakfast I headed off to climb Mount Maunganui. Everywhere you go there seems to be some kind of mountain or lookout point to climb. All those volcanoes! But it was a beautiful view and I had to shed far too many layers as it was actually pretty warm in contrast to the previous day. I seem to have totally lost my fitness levels since all that cycling and walking in Asia, much to my chagrin. I huffed and puffed my way up the steep tracks but it was worth it for the view. And I felt so much better after that so I definitely need to get off my backside and do more exercise from now on. Got too used to zooming around in my little car and being too inactive.
A two-hour drive, far too many windy roads making me a bit sick and several cheesy songs on my ipod and I arrived at my final road trip destination for now, Witianga. A very cute little hostel overlooking the beach, pretty quiet but with some nice people in contrast to the night before. I then received some fabulous news from home, which made me feel a very long way away and I just wanted to hug everyone in sight. Let's just say a best friend now has a big sparkler on her finger. I settled for a glass of wine to celebrate and a bit of tv, one of the first times I've really watched it since I've been here. An hour or so later and my roommate and I were having to switch rooms as our doorknob was knackered and we were in danger of getting stuck in or out as the door wouldn't open. As luck would have it we got moved to our own little unit so we had a room each and a bit of peace and quiet. Result!
I was feeling all wistful and emotional after the good news so I told my roomie I was going for a walk on the beach in the moonlight. She decided to join me so we had a good chat in the moonshine, it was so bright and just looked beautiful reflecting off the water.
A solid night's sleep later and it was time to pack up the car again and head back down the coast for the most stunning walk to Cathedral Cove. The weather was pretty mild and sunny again so I was shedding the layers as I went, despite being all wrapped up only that morning as I set off. Can't keep up with the weather changes. The cove really was spectacular with gleaming white sand, sparkling blue and very clear sea and more interesting rock formations to photograph and gawp over.
That afternoon I picked up my roommate from another hostel that she'd moved on to and we set off for Hot Water Beach. You rent a spade from the local cafe and at low tide set off up the beach to find the scorching hot water under the sand. The most bizarre thing to dig a big hole, get your bikini on in the middle of winter and sit soaking up the thermal springs next to the cold and uninviting sea. It was getting pretty busy by the time we left but it was time to head off in the car back to Auckland.
Another couple of hours later and I was back at my usual hostel here in the city. Big mistake coming back here in a way! I should have stayed somewhere near the city and saved myself the hassle of no more dorm rooms left and driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space somewhere before returning the car tomorrow morning. Lord knows how much the car park I eventually found in sheer desperation is going to cost me. I'll have to worry about that tomorrow. Got some packing and minimising of baggage to do before I catch a flight to Wellington tomorrow (weather permitting). That's all for now folks...
But it does mean that plans have to be a little fluid at the moment to tie in with whatever the weather is doing. Mountain biking take two was scuppered yet again, this time because of the snow and ice rather than the rain the day before. Really wanted to get back out on the bike and test out the NZ tracks but t'was not to be. I also cancelled the white water rafting that I'd booked as I really didn't fancy being frozen to the bone in an icy river. Wimping out again I know. The guy on the phone tried to persuade me that 20 people were out on the river as we spoke but I wasn't buying it.
Instead I headed off for my first sighting of a native kiwi (not the human kind but the real avian variety). At Rainbow Springs wildlife park they had a kiwi encounter that took you through the hatching process and then you got to see three resident birds in the sanctuary. You would not believe how huge their eggs are compared to the size of the bird, poor things. But the females get to do a runner straight after they've hatched and the males have to do all the hard work after that. If only that translated into human life I can think of a few female friends that might be happier!
I then drove through the stunning countryside yet again to reach the Hobbiton movie set for a tour of the little hobbit houses from Lord of the Rings on my way to Tauranga, my home for the night. It was great fun getting the tour of the land, if a little chilly out in the icy wind. First the tour guide had to get rid of a couple of errant sheep who'd infiltrated the set. Now I'm sworn to secrecy on the details having signed a confidentiality agreement but I have seen some new sets for the upcoming Hobbit film, which they haven't started filming yet. There were lots of warnings about not ruining or touching anything otherwise the whole operation might be shut down. But we all behaved ourselves, took lots of pictures and then went on our merry way.
I was feeling pretty knackered with a massive headache by the time I got to my hostel for the night. This wasn't helped by the unfriendly atmosphere in the place and the inhabitants all seemed a bit strange. So it wasn't a great night, especially when the water was off in the morning and I couldn't even have a shower. Was feeling a bit low and fed up with crap hostels and being a bit lonely on the road. However, just when you are feeling like that you then rock up to another place and it's completely the opposite.
After breakfast I headed off to climb Mount Maunganui. Everywhere you go there seems to be some kind of mountain or lookout point to climb. All those volcanoes! But it was a beautiful view and I had to shed far too many layers as it was actually pretty warm in contrast to the previous day. I seem to have totally lost my fitness levels since all that cycling and walking in Asia, much to my chagrin. I huffed and puffed my way up the steep tracks but it was worth it for the view. And I felt so much better after that so I definitely need to get off my backside and do more exercise from now on. Got too used to zooming around in my little car and being too inactive.
A two-hour drive, far too many windy roads making me a bit sick and several cheesy songs on my ipod and I arrived at my final road trip destination for now, Witianga. A very cute little hostel overlooking the beach, pretty quiet but with some nice people in contrast to the night before. I then received some fabulous news from home, which made me feel a very long way away and I just wanted to hug everyone in sight. Let's just say a best friend now has a big sparkler on her finger. I settled for a glass of wine to celebrate and a bit of tv, one of the first times I've really watched it since I've been here. An hour or so later and my roommate and I were having to switch rooms as our doorknob was knackered and we were in danger of getting stuck in or out as the door wouldn't open. As luck would have it we got moved to our own little unit so we had a room each and a bit of peace and quiet. Result!
I was feeling all wistful and emotional after the good news so I told my roomie I was going for a walk on the beach in the moonlight. She decided to join me so we had a good chat in the moonshine, it was so bright and just looked beautiful reflecting off the water.
A solid night's sleep later and it was time to pack up the car again and head back down the coast for the most stunning walk to Cathedral Cove. The weather was pretty mild and sunny again so I was shedding the layers as I went, despite being all wrapped up only that morning as I set off. Can't keep up with the weather changes. The cove really was spectacular with gleaming white sand, sparkling blue and very clear sea and more interesting rock formations to photograph and gawp over.
That afternoon I picked up my roommate from another hostel that she'd moved on to and we set off for Hot Water Beach. You rent a spade from the local cafe and at low tide set off up the beach to find the scorching hot water under the sand. The most bizarre thing to dig a big hole, get your bikini on in the middle of winter and sit soaking up the thermal springs next to the cold and uninviting sea. It was getting pretty busy by the time we left but it was time to head off in the car back to Auckland.
Another couple of hours later and I was back at my usual hostel here in the city. Big mistake coming back here in a way! I should have stayed somewhere near the city and saved myself the hassle of no more dorm rooms left and driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space somewhere before returning the car tomorrow morning. Lord knows how much the car park I eventually found in sheer desperation is going to cost me. I'll have to worry about that tomorrow. Got some packing and minimising of baggage to do before I catch a flight to Wellington tomorrow (weather permitting). That's all for now folks...
Sunday, 14 August 2011
Scent of sulphur
My plans were scuppered again. Didn't quite make it out on a wine tour in the end. I could have done the self-guided cycling tour but the weather was again a bit rubbish and I thought it probably wouldn't be much fun on my own. But I couldn't go on any bus tours as there was only little old me and no one else booked. So no go. Shame but I headed out in the car to Te Mata Peak (shrouded in cloud, been happening a lot with those peaks lately) though I managed a few sneaky shots of the view without too much fluffy stuff.
On the way down from the peak I stopped at Aratiki Honey and tested out all their different varieties, spent a while trying to spot the Queen Bee in some of the hives, and learnt a little bit more about bees than I did before. It was a way to while away half an hour. I then headed out to Cape Kidnappers where there are huge gannet colonies to be seen in summer. It was a bit late in the day so once I realised it was quite a big place with long walks and payment required I decided to turn back and return to Napier. But not before I'd driven along the muddy detour that ran alongside the original road that had all but disappeared into the sea. Was going to stop and take a piccy but someone was coming along in the other direction and there wasn't enough room for the both of us. Random though. Before too long the area will be completely impassable I would have thought.
Once back in Napier I parked the car and walked along to the Wine Centre to get what fix of vino I could. After assaulting my nostrils with lots of sample scents of wine bouquets (including the not so nice ones) it was more challenging to actually decipher the real thing. I say the real thing, in terms of the real wine anyway. Gulping down at least five different tipples I confirmed what I already knew, that I do love a good Malbec!
A nice English couple were also doing the tasting and very kindly invited me for a drink afterwards having engaged in some conversation at the centre. So we headed off to the local wine bar and got acquainted. It was nice to meet more people of my own age rather than too many backpackers in their 20s! Who knows, our paths may cross again in the South Island.
The company I booked the alpine crossing weren't going out again the following day so I hopped in the car and headed up to Lake Taupo instead. This time the better weather meant I could actually see the lake (I drove past it on my way to Napier) and take some photos. If you are ever visiting New Zealand, don't worry too much about organising any of your daily activities beforehand, the information centres are fabulous. They have so much information and can book it all up for you. So armed with some local maps I drove out to Huka Falls, a section of the Waikato River that forms a thunderous churning of froth and spray when it's squeezed into a narrow channel of rock. Lots of photo opportunities there.
Rather than do a jet boat tour on this bit of the river I decided to do a different one that was recommended by a couple of people at the Waitomo Caves. This was on the Arataki River, just below the dam. It was a great laugh, never been in a jet boat before and thought it would be a bit different to white water rafting. The rapids that you go down (and up again and again and again) weren't huge but the driver did loads of spins and zoomed along scarily close to trees and jetties. And drenched us all on the final rapid. We also saw the dam before the gates were opened and afterwards - what a difference a dam wall makes!
I fancied a night to myself for a change so booked myself into a little cabin on a campsite after driving up to Rotorua for the next action-packed section of my trip. Pretty basic but just me, myself and I which was exactly what I wanted. Had a little kitchenette and enjoyed a bit of peace and quiet cooking for myself rather than fighting over space in a backpacker-filled hostel kitchen.
This morning I headed to the thermal wonderland of Wao Tapu to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt like clockwork at 10.15am. This would be pretty remarkable if it weren't aided by some chemicals to make her blow. I did initially think it was bizarre for anything in nature to be so regimented! But it was pretty interesting nonetheless. I then wandered around the park snapping away at all the crazy landscapes that the volcanic activity has created. Luminous yellow/green pools, bright orange and green layers on surrounding fauna, champagne pools lined with the brightest orange tinge, steam rising from every orifice and bubbling hot water everywhere you look. All accompanied with the strong smell of sulphur catching the back of your throat, mmmmmm. Truly out of this world.
And then the heavens opened which altered my plans for a cycle round the local mountain bike forest. So I headed off to the Polynesian Spa for a nice massage and a relaxing hour in the steamy hot sulphuric pools (these ones that you could actually swim in). Bliss, this sulphur isn't half bad after all.
On the way down from the peak I stopped at Aratiki Honey and tested out all their different varieties, spent a while trying to spot the Queen Bee in some of the hives, and learnt a little bit more about bees than I did before. It was a way to while away half an hour. I then headed out to Cape Kidnappers where there are huge gannet colonies to be seen in summer. It was a bit late in the day so once I realised it was quite a big place with long walks and payment required I decided to turn back and return to Napier. But not before I'd driven along the muddy detour that ran alongside the original road that had all but disappeared into the sea. Was going to stop and take a piccy but someone was coming along in the other direction and there wasn't enough room for the both of us. Random though. Before too long the area will be completely impassable I would have thought.
Once back in Napier I parked the car and walked along to the Wine Centre to get what fix of vino I could. After assaulting my nostrils with lots of sample scents of wine bouquets (including the not so nice ones) it was more challenging to actually decipher the real thing. I say the real thing, in terms of the real wine anyway. Gulping down at least five different tipples I confirmed what I already knew, that I do love a good Malbec!
A nice English couple were also doing the tasting and very kindly invited me for a drink afterwards having engaged in some conversation at the centre. So we headed off to the local wine bar and got acquainted. It was nice to meet more people of my own age rather than too many backpackers in their 20s! Who knows, our paths may cross again in the South Island.
The company I booked the alpine crossing weren't going out again the following day so I hopped in the car and headed up to Lake Taupo instead. This time the better weather meant I could actually see the lake (I drove past it on my way to Napier) and take some photos. If you are ever visiting New Zealand, don't worry too much about organising any of your daily activities beforehand, the information centres are fabulous. They have so much information and can book it all up for you. So armed with some local maps I drove out to Huka Falls, a section of the Waikato River that forms a thunderous churning of froth and spray when it's squeezed into a narrow channel of rock. Lots of photo opportunities there.
Rather than do a jet boat tour on this bit of the river I decided to do a different one that was recommended by a couple of people at the Waitomo Caves. This was on the Arataki River, just below the dam. It was a great laugh, never been in a jet boat before and thought it would be a bit different to white water rafting. The rapids that you go down (and up again and again and again) weren't huge but the driver did loads of spins and zoomed along scarily close to trees and jetties. And drenched us all on the final rapid. We also saw the dam before the gates were opened and afterwards - what a difference a dam wall makes!
I fancied a night to myself for a change so booked myself into a little cabin on a campsite after driving up to Rotorua for the next action-packed section of my trip. Pretty basic but just me, myself and I which was exactly what I wanted. Had a little kitchenette and enjoyed a bit of peace and quiet cooking for myself rather than fighting over space in a backpacker-filled hostel kitchen.
This morning I headed to the thermal wonderland of Wao Tapu to watch the Lady Knox Geyser erupt like clockwork at 10.15am. This would be pretty remarkable if it weren't aided by some chemicals to make her blow. I did initially think it was bizarre for anything in nature to be so regimented! But it was pretty interesting nonetheless. I then wandered around the park snapping away at all the crazy landscapes that the volcanic activity has created. Luminous yellow/green pools, bright orange and green layers on surrounding fauna, champagne pools lined with the brightest orange tinge, steam rising from every orifice and bubbling hot water everywhere you look. All accompanied with the strong smell of sulphur catching the back of your throat, mmmmmm. Truly out of this world.
And then the heavens opened which altered my plans for a cycle round the local mountain bike forest. So I headed off to the Polynesian Spa for a nice massage and a relaxing hour in the steamy hot sulphuric pools (these ones that you could actually swim in). Bliss, this sulphur isn't half bad after all.
Thursday, 11 August 2011
Littlest hobo
Driving in my car along all these windy roads in the wilds of New Zealand I keep coming back to the lyrics of that marvellous kids tv programme the Littlest Hobo. You remember, where the dog makes friends with a new person or family each episode. I googled the lyrics and think it sums things up quite aptly:
"There's a voice that keeps on calling me
Down the road, that's where I'll always be.
Every stop I make, I make a new friend,
Can't stay for long, just turn around and I'm gone again
Maybe tomorrow, I'll want to settle down,
Until tomorrow, I'll just keep moving on.
Down this road that never seems to end,
Where new adventure lies just around the bend.
So if you want to drive me for a while,
Just grab your hat, come travel light, that's hobo style."
It's been in my head for a few days now. Used to love it as a kid. I wouldn't necessarily say I make a new friend everywhere I go but you certainly get chatting to lots of random people about inane things and then you're off again, somewhere new. I do crave a conversation with someone who knows me well that I don't have to make an effort with or explain myself to though sometimes!
Did I say in my last post how much I love staying in surfing towns? They have such a laid-back, chilled out vibe and the hostels are always great with lots of things free or provided if you ask (in Raglan they had free mountain bikes, kayaks, surf boards etc). Plus lots of kitchen bits and pieces so long as you shared what you made. I just love that level of trust, hard to come by in some of these hostels where they charge a deposit for your key, blanket, and kitchen stuff in some really rubbish places. I think that's going a step too far not providing basic kitchen stuff on trust.
I moved on yesterday from Raglan after going for a beautiful walk in the sunshine along the surf beach. Took lots of pictures and clambered over the rocks before turning back and watching the planes taking off from the little local airport and flying low over the statuesque Mount Karioi. I was going to head off on another walk but after two or so hours of walking along the volcanic sand I was a bit knackered and settled for a drive in the car to another surf beach and a local scenic reserve instead. Had a quiet night chilling out.
Shared a room with an interesting kiwi girl, an ornithologist who was in the area to assess the impact of the local windfarm on the bird population. Fascinating who you meet on your travels. After being spoilt rotten with fancy hotels paid for by the companies I've worked for it's hard to imagine being put up in a hostel by your job, expected to share with a stranger and get up for work the next day. But I guess things are a bit different over here.
Next stop was the Waitomo Caves, a two-hour drive from Raglan. Black water rafting is pretty different from the white water variety, mainly because your in the depths of huge caves, it's mostly pitch black and there aren't many rapids. But it was an awesomely incredible experience. Famed for its glow worms in the local vicinity it was a truly spectacular experience to drift along in your little tube with only the glow worms lighting our way in the caves. Surreal, fantastical and almost felt out of this world, like I was transported into a superman film, the walls flecked with kryptonite or something. After getting a bit claustrophic in the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam I was surprised that I didn't mind one bit squeezing myself into the smallest of passages to explore the black labyrinth of caves that gave the tour its name.
Another long drive later and I arrived at the National Park in the centre of the North Island in the dark. I had no idea what my surroundings looked like and things were no different this morning as the area was cloaked in a huge veil of thick cloud. Which scuppered my plans to do the famous Tongariro alpine crossing, one of the best one-day walks in NZ, if not the world. I could have gone but as I've got time and no fixed plans I've amended my non-existent itinerary (just a rough idea in my head of what I want to do) and will return over the weekend to (hopefully) better weather.
So I'm now in Napier, on the East coast, and have indulged in an afternoon of art deco architecture with a guided walk by the local art deco centre. I think I'll appreciate it more tomorrow when I've had a good night's sleep, a hearty breakfast and haven't driven three hours. It was a good walk and interesting information but I was so thirsty and hungry with not much time to satiate myself before embarking on the walk that I was a little grumpy by the time we got underway!
It is a fascinating story of the town full of pastel-coloured wonders, if you like that style of architecture (I wholeheartedly do). Raised to the ground by a fiersome earthquake in 1931 it was rebuilt in the style of the day from scratch. What's even more remarkable is the difference in land mass before and after the earthquake. Originally most of the area surrounding the small town was swamp and sea. But the 'quake raised the level of the land by two metres and created an extra 4,000 hectares on which to rebuild the new city. It's pretty unique in many ways but that is quite phenomenal.
Hopefully tomorrow will bring some better weather and I can either head off on a self-guided cycling tour of the Hawke's Bay wineries or a bus tour to join some other folk and sample those smashing grapes.
"There's a voice that keeps on calling me
Down the road, that's where I'll always be.
Every stop I make, I make a new friend,
Can't stay for long, just turn around and I'm gone again
Maybe tomorrow, I'll want to settle down,
Until tomorrow, I'll just keep moving on.
Down this road that never seems to end,
Where new adventure lies just around the bend.
So if you want to drive me for a while,
Just grab your hat, come travel light, that's hobo style."
It's been in my head for a few days now. Used to love it as a kid. I wouldn't necessarily say I make a new friend everywhere I go but you certainly get chatting to lots of random people about inane things and then you're off again, somewhere new. I do crave a conversation with someone who knows me well that I don't have to make an effort with or explain myself to though sometimes!
Did I say in my last post how much I love staying in surfing towns? They have such a laid-back, chilled out vibe and the hostels are always great with lots of things free or provided if you ask (in Raglan they had free mountain bikes, kayaks, surf boards etc). Plus lots of kitchen bits and pieces so long as you shared what you made. I just love that level of trust, hard to come by in some of these hostels where they charge a deposit for your key, blanket, and kitchen stuff in some really rubbish places. I think that's going a step too far not providing basic kitchen stuff on trust.
I moved on yesterday from Raglan after going for a beautiful walk in the sunshine along the surf beach. Took lots of pictures and clambered over the rocks before turning back and watching the planes taking off from the little local airport and flying low over the statuesque Mount Karioi. I was going to head off on another walk but after two or so hours of walking along the volcanic sand I was a bit knackered and settled for a drive in the car to another surf beach and a local scenic reserve instead. Had a quiet night chilling out.
Shared a room with an interesting kiwi girl, an ornithologist who was in the area to assess the impact of the local windfarm on the bird population. Fascinating who you meet on your travels. After being spoilt rotten with fancy hotels paid for by the companies I've worked for it's hard to imagine being put up in a hostel by your job, expected to share with a stranger and get up for work the next day. But I guess things are a bit different over here.
Next stop was the Waitomo Caves, a two-hour drive from Raglan. Black water rafting is pretty different from the white water variety, mainly because your in the depths of huge caves, it's mostly pitch black and there aren't many rapids. But it was an awesomely incredible experience. Famed for its glow worms in the local vicinity it was a truly spectacular experience to drift along in your little tube with only the glow worms lighting our way in the caves. Surreal, fantastical and almost felt out of this world, like I was transported into a superman film, the walls flecked with kryptonite or something. After getting a bit claustrophic in the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam I was surprised that I didn't mind one bit squeezing myself into the smallest of passages to explore the black labyrinth of caves that gave the tour its name.
Another long drive later and I arrived at the National Park in the centre of the North Island in the dark. I had no idea what my surroundings looked like and things were no different this morning as the area was cloaked in a huge veil of thick cloud. Which scuppered my plans to do the famous Tongariro alpine crossing, one of the best one-day walks in NZ, if not the world. I could have gone but as I've got time and no fixed plans I've amended my non-existent itinerary (just a rough idea in my head of what I want to do) and will return over the weekend to (hopefully) better weather.
So I'm now in Napier, on the East coast, and have indulged in an afternoon of art deco architecture with a guided walk by the local art deco centre. I think I'll appreciate it more tomorrow when I've had a good night's sleep, a hearty breakfast and haven't driven three hours. It was a good walk and interesting information but I was so thirsty and hungry with not much time to satiate myself before embarking on the walk that I was a little grumpy by the time we got underway!
It is a fascinating story of the town full of pastel-coloured wonders, if you like that style of architecture (I wholeheartedly do). Raised to the ground by a fiersome earthquake in 1931 it was rebuilt in the style of the day from scratch. What's even more remarkable is the difference in land mass before and after the earthquake. Originally most of the area surrounding the small town was swamp and sea. But the 'quake raised the level of the land by two metres and created an extra 4,000 hectares on which to rebuild the new city. It's pretty unique in many ways but that is quite phenomenal.
Hopefully tomorrow will bring some better weather and I can either head off on a self-guided cycling tour of the Hawke's Bay wineries or a bus tour to join some other folk and sample those smashing grapes.
Monday, 8 August 2011
A German invasion
It was good to get out of Auckland and start to explore the wonder that is the landscape of New Zealand. It really is stunning. And it reminds me of England a lot, or rather the rolling hills of Wales. Lots of sheep and cows everywhere and just luminous green fields. (It really is a misconception these days that NZ is full of sheep, it isn't, it's full of cows - every different type that you could possibly imagine!)
There were only two others on the bus trip with me, both German, though not together. A very sweet girl who is over here before starting university at the end of the Summer, and a trainee lawyer on internship in Auckland for three months. I think there are more Germans travelling here than any other nation. It got to the point where we were laughing every time we heard another German accent.
It was nice to have a small group and not have to make too much effort getting to know the masses. Our tour guide was a nice guy too and took us to some interesting places on the way up to the Bay of Islands. We experienced our first Kauri tree for a bit of tree hugging, though you'd have to have arms several feet long to get all the way round the trunk, they're huge. We also stopped in a small town whose name I can't remember (Mauri names seem to stay in my brain for about half an hour and then I've forgotten them completely) for some Gaudi-esque architecture by an Austrian architect called Hundertwasser (I just had to Google it as I couldn't remember that either - the town is called Kawakawa). He designed some very way out public toilets.
When we got to Paihia, where we were staying for the next two days, we found out we couldn't do the dolphin watching trip planned as there weren't enough of us but we'd get a second chance on the Sunday instead before we left. So headed off on the ferry across the bay to Russell, the first capital of New Zealand. A very pretty little town with the oldest public bar, church and many other buildings as the first settlers arrived in these parts. Had a nice pint of Mac's Gold lager in front of the fire in the hotel bar, I'd really been missing a good old pub so that fulfilled that desire for a while.
After we returned on the ferry we headed to Hurauru Falls, a brisk walk through the forest and mangroves as the sun was going down. The lady at the hostel had played it down saying it wasn't anything special so we were suitably impressed with the thunderous river and rainbows created by the spray when we arrived. We didn't want to chance heading back through the forest in the dark so headed back along the road, a bit of a hairy trip with no pavements and fast cars but we made it after a hard slog up many hills.
That night we relaxed in the hot tub and devoured the bargainous BBQ on offer at the hostel before heading to a couple of pubs. Played Michael at pool and whipped his arse, surprisingly, as I haven't played in so long I can't even remember. There was even mention of it being just like Wembley all those years ago, beating the Germans (though not by me I hasten to add)!
Another early start the next day and we joined a larger party on different tours to head up to the furthest point in the North, Cape Reinga. The bus drove along 90-mile beach, we even saw a little seal pup making his way back into the sea, as well as a few vehicular casualties along the way. A stop for lunch and we were climbing the huge dunes so body board our way down the sand. Great fun though I forgot my own advice to keep your mouth shut and was too busy wailing in delight and received an unwelcome mouthful on the way down.
At the Cape we witnessed where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific and got a glance at Spirits Bay in the distance, a culturally significant place for Maoris. It's where they believe their souls go when they die, finding their way back to their homeland.
That night we headed off to the locals bar to watch the All Blacks play the Wallabies at rugby. A great game to watch with the locals as the All Blacks scored in the first ten minutes and just kept on winning throughout.
Next day we finally managed to go out on our dolphin watching trip. Though sadly we didn't see any dolphins. One of those unusual days when they don't find any. Sometimes they disappear because Orca are in the bay (it would have been fantastic to see one of them) or they just get a bit shy. We headed out to sea to see the 'Hole in the Rock', where the sea got incredibly rough. Every boat trip I take seems to get worse on the seasickness front! I felt truly awful by the time we stopped at a little island for a break and was glad to get on dry land for a while. Note to self next time - actually take the seasickness tablets you've been carrying around rather than assuming you're going to be ok!
Absolutely shattered by the time we got back to Auckland. Several late nights and annoying roommates had just about finished me off by this point. But a good night's sleep with three very nice English girls as companions later and I was setting off in my little El Cheapo car that I've hired for the next ten days. I'm now in Raglan, a totally chilled out surfing town with apparently the best breaks in New Zealand, and some of the best in the world. Tempting to have a surf lesson but I think I'll save that for a hotter climate. It was a beautiful day today so I went for a long walk on the beach and then a drive up the coast to see what else I didn't see on the walk. The sea out here seems to have its own unique colour, a green that I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
Think it might be time for the hot tub now, to rest my weary limbs...
There were only two others on the bus trip with me, both German, though not together. A very sweet girl who is over here before starting university at the end of the Summer, and a trainee lawyer on internship in Auckland for three months. I think there are more Germans travelling here than any other nation. It got to the point where we were laughing every time we heard another German accent.
It was nice to have a small group and not have to make too much effort getting to know the masses. Our tour guide was a nice guy too and took us to some interesting places on the way up to the Bay of Islands. We experienced our first Kauri tree for a bit of tree hugging, though you'd have to have arms several feet long to get all the way round the trunk, they're huge. We also stopped in a small town whose name I can't remember (Mauri names seem to stay in my brain for about half an hour and then I've forgotten them completely) for some Gaudi-esque architecture by an Austrian architect called Hundertwasser (I just had to Google it as I couldn't remember that either - the town is called Kawakawa). He designed some very way out public toilets.
When we got to Paihia, where we were staying for the next two days, we found out we couldn't do the dolphin watching trip planned as there weren't enough of us but we'd get a second chance on the Sunday instead before we left. So headed off on the ferry across the bay to Russell, the first capital of New Zealand. A very pretty little town with the oldest public bar, church and many other buildings as the first settlers arrived in these parts. Had a nice pint of Mac's Gold lager in front of the fire in the hotel bar, I'd really been missing a good old pub so that fulfilled that desire for a while.
After we returned on the ferry we headed to Hurauru Falls, a brisk walk through the forest and mangroves as the sun was going down. The lady at the hostel had played it down saying it wasn't anything special so we were suitably impressed with the thunderous river and rainbows created by the spray when we arrived. We didn't want to chance heading back through the forest in the dark so headed back along the road, a bit of a hairy trip with no pavements and fast cars but we made it after a hard slog up many hills.
That night we relaxed in the hot tub and devoured the bargainous BBQ on offer at the hostel before heading to a couple of pubs. Played Michael at pool and whipped his arse, surprisingly, as I haven't played in so long I can't even remember. There was even mention of it being just like Wembley all those years ago, beating the Germans (though not by me I hasten to add)!
Another early start the next day and we joined a larger party on different tours to head up to the furthest point in the North, Cape Reinga. The bus drove along 90-mile beach, we even saw a little seal pup making his way back into the sea, as well as a few vehicular casualties along the way. A stop for lunch and we were climbing the huge dunes so body board our way down the sand. Great fun though I forgot my own advice to keep your mouth shut and was too busy wailing in delight and received an unwelcome mouthful on the way down.
At the Cape we witnessed where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific and got a glance at Spirits Bay in the distance, a culturally significant place for Maoris. It's where they believe their souls go when they die, finding their way back to their homeland.
That night we headed off to the locals bar to watch the All Blacks play the Wallabies at rugby. A great game to watch with the locals as the All Blacks scored in the first ten minutes and just kept on winning throughout.
Next day we finally managed to go out on our dolphin watching trip. Though sadly we didn't see any dolphins. One of those unusual days when they don't find any. Sometimes they disappear because Orca are in the bay (it would have been fantastic to see one of them) or they just get a bit shy. We headed out to sea to see the 'Hole in the Rock', where the sea got incredibly rough. Every boat trip I take seems to get worse on the seasickness front! I felt truly awful by the time we stopped at a little island for a break and was glad to get on dry land for a while. Note to self next time - actually take the seasickness tablets you've been carrying around rather than assuming you're going to be ok!
Absolutely shattered by the time we got back to Auckland. Several late nights and annoying roommates had just about finished me off by this point. But a good night's sleep with three very nice English girls as companions later and I was setting off in my little El Cheapo car that I've hired for the next ten days. I'm now in Raglan, a totally chilled out surfing town with apparently the best breaks in New Zealand, and some of the best in the world. Tempting to have a surf lesson but I think I'll save that for a hotter climate. It was a beautiful day today so I went for a long walk on the beach and then a drive up the coast to see what else I didn't see on the walk. The sea out here seems to have its own unique colour, a green that I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
Think it might be time for the hot tub now, to rest my weary limbs...
Thursday, 4 August 2011
Sweet (but not short)
So here I am in New Zealand. Can't believe I'm here already, just over halfway through my trip. Though having checked my finances the other day I'd say maybe I'm closer to the end than I'd like! Think I'm going to have to rethink what I do in South America and how long I spend there at this rate. Unless I get a win on the premium bonds or a generous relative over the next few weeks?! If anyone cares to contribute to the Carrie Goldsworthy World Wildlife and Tourism Foundation that would be awesome!!
It's been a glorious day here in Auckland today, the sun has been shining and I think I might have got a little sunburnt on my visage as I've been glowing ever since I got back this afternoon. Or that could be the vino tinto I'm tucking into as I type! (Mum, I know it sounds like I'm on some big booze cruise or something I assure you I'm really not consuming that much...) I've spent the last few days checking out the sights of the city and trying to work out my next move. Takes a while to find your feet when you rock up to a new country, time to absorb the endless information about where to go, how best to get there and what are the cheapest deals.
I arrived on Sunday to be met at the airport by another old friend from the Audit Commission, Nikki and her husband Neal (plus their three year old Connor). It was great to not have to worry about how to get to the hostel or lugging all my stuff on the bus/train and also great to see them after a few years. Both kiwis, they lived in London for ten years and moved back nearly a year ago. They dropped me off at my hostel and we arranged to meet up later in the week for a proper catch up. Later in the evening I went down the road to the local cinema for the final installment of the Harry Potter series, though it wasn't the same without my buddy SJ.
The next day was filled mostly with sorting myself out and popping to the shops to get a few bits and pieces that I'd either abandoned for lack of space in Oz or had run out of and not replaced. I did manage to fit in a trip up Auckland's Sky Tower, which seems to be a staple in every Antipodean city. Always good to get a perspective of a place and what is located where. I also went for a walk along Queen Street (the main shopping area) and in Albert Park but was too late to go round the art gallery, which was a shame.
After not managing to see much on the Monday, the following morning I got up early and decided to blitz as much as possible. Trekking out to Mount Eden on the bus I took in the glorious views of one of the city's many volcanic viewpoints. Back in on the bus and a walk to the Domain, a big park housing a winter gardens and the city's museum. My first foray into Maori and Pacific island culture was most interesting and I was wowed by a couple of full-scale Maori meeting houses, incredibly impressive with all their intricate carvings and scary-looking idols.
Next I walked to Newmarket to browse a few shops but found them very similar to those in Oz, typical high-street fare. I was going to head to Parnell but instead the bus was heading towards Ponsonby so for ease I changed plans and headed there instead. A lovely area with smart houses and posh shops. Little did I know that I'd be heading back there with Nikki and Neal later for a slap-up meal and cocktails.
Walking back along K'Road, an eclectic mix of grungy op shops and bars, I managed to purchase a couple of bargainous jumpers to keep me toasty warm in the snow of the South Island later on in my trip.
Yesterday I got picked up for a free bus trip by a company that I wanted to check out to see whether to book a bigger trip with them. Stray are all about getting off the beaten track and were set up by one of the founders of Kiwi Experience, who I'd already discounted for being a bit too young and party-orientated - not quite what I was looking for. We went up to Bastion Point for more views of the city from afar, lunch in Ponsonby and then got a free Auckland bridge walk though no one opted to bungy from the middle so one of the staff members showed us how it was done instead. It was a good day and nice to meet some different people so I went ahead and booked a three-day trip to the Bay of Islands, south of Auckland, starting tomorrow. Then I'm thinking of getting them to chauffeur me round most of the South Island as I don't want to drive myself in any icy or snowy conditions. Last night was spent at Nikki's parents for dinner, sampling a New Zealand classic (apparently) of bacon and egg pie and a delicious dessert that my host had cooked. Lucky me.
Today I sorted out some of my future trips, charged up the new SIM card that I've got to save on mobile costs and caught the ferry to Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano that you can walk to the summit of and get more stunning views of the bay and surrounding islands. It was good to get some exercise and break into a sweat. On the way back I stopped off at Devonport, a nice seaside town with smart shops and houses, just a short commute across the harbour from Auckland city centre.
Looking forward to getting out of the city tomorrow and seeing more of the countryside. I'll also be glad to get away from some of the pretty rubbish room mates I've had over the last couple of days. An older woman from Taiwan has been driving me mad with her penchant for staying up late and flicking the lights on so she can belch loudly and regurgitate part of her evening meal - most pleasant! A previous room mate kept me awake half the night with her incessant snoring and tossing and turning. Up until now I've been pretty lucky so I guess the honeymoon period of hostelling is well and truly over.
On a final note, kiwis seem to say 'sweet' an awful lot, hence the title of the post!
It's been a glorious day here in Auckland today, the sun has been shining and I think I might have got a little sunburnt on my visage as I've been glowing ever since I got back this afternoon. Or that could be the vino tinto I'm tucking into as I type! (Mum, I know it sounds like I'm on some big booze cruise or something I assure you I'm really not consuming that much...) I've spent the last few days checking out the sights of the city and trying to work out my next move. Takes a while to find your feet when you rock up to a new country, time to absorb the endless information about where to go, how best to get there and what are the cheapest deals.
I arrived on Sunday to be met at the airport by another old friend from the Audit Commission, Nikki and her husband Neal (plus their three year old Connor). It was great to not have to worry about how to get to the hostel or lugging all my stuff on the bus/train and also great to see them after a few years. Both kiwis, they lived in London for ten years and moved back nearly a year ago. They dropped me off at my hostel and we arranged to meet up later in the week for a proper catch up. Later in the evening I went down the road to the local cinema for the final installment of the Harry Potter series, though it wasn't the same without my buddy SJ.
The next day was filled mostly with sorting myself out and popping to the shops to get a few bits and pieces that I'd either abandoned for lack of space in Oz or had run out of and not replaced. I did manage to fit in a trip up Auckland's Sky Tower, which seems to be a staple in every Antipodean city. Always good to get a perspective of a place and what is located where. I also went for a walk along Queen Street (the main shopping area) and in Albert Park but was too late to go round the art gallery, which was a shame.
After not managing to see much on the Monday, the following morning I got up early and decided to blitz as much as possible. Trekking out to Mount Eden on the bus I took in the glorious views of one of the city's many volcanic viewpoints. Back in on the bus and a walk to the Domain, a big park housing a winter gardens and the city's museum. My first foray into Maori and Pacific island culture was most interesting and I was wowed by a couple of full-scale Maori meeting houses, incredibly impressive with all their intricate carvings and scary-looking idols.
Next I walked to Newmarket to browse a few shops but found them very similar to those in Oz, typical high-street fare. I was going to head to Parnell but instead the bus was heading towards Ponsonby so for ease I changed plans and headed there instead. A lovely area with smart houses and posh shops. Little did I know that I'd be heading back there with Nikki and Neal later for a slap-up meal and cocktails.
Walking back along K'Road, an eclectic mix of grungy op shops and bars, I managed to purchase a couple of bargainous jumpers to keep me toasty warm in the snow of the South Island later on in my trip.
Yesterday I got picked up for a free bus trip by a company that I wanted to check out to see whether to book a bigger trip with them. Stray are all about getting off the beaten track and were set up by one of the founders of Kiwi Experience, who I'd already discounted for being a bit too young and party-orientated - not quite what I was looking for. We went up to Bastion Point for more views of the city from afar, lunch in Ponsonby and then got a free Auckland bridge walk though no one opted to bungy from the middle so one of the staff members showed us how it was done instead. It was a good day and nice to meet some different people so I went ahead and booked a three-day trip to the Bay of Islands, south of Auckland, starting tomorrow. Then I'm thinking of getting them to chauffeur me round most of the South Island as I don't want to drive myself in any icy or snowy conditions. Last night was spent at Nikki's parents for dinner, sampling a New Zealand classic (apparently) of bacon and egg pie and a delicious dessert that my host had cooked. Lucky me.
Today I sorted out some of my future trips, charged up the new SIM card that I've got to save on mobile costs and caught the ferry to Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano that you can walk to the summit of and get more stunning views of the bay and surrounding islands. It was good to get some exercise and break into a sweat. On the way back I stopped off at Devonport, a nice seaside town with smart shops and houses, just a short commute across the harbour from Auckland city centre.
Looking forward to getting out of the city tomorrow and seeing more of the countryside. I'll also be glad to get away from some of the pretty rubbish room mates I've had over the last couple of days. An older woman from Taiwan has been driving me mad with her penchant for staying up late and flicking the lights on so she can belch loudly and regurgitate part of her evening meal - most pleasant! A previous room mate kept me awake half the night with her incessant snoring and tossing and turning. Up until now I've been pretty lucky so I guess the honeymoon period of hostelling is well and truly over.
On a final note, kiwis seem to say 'sweet' an awful lot, hence the title of the post!
Saturday, 30 July 2011
Showtime again
Here are some albums of photos of Australia, as I leave these sunny shores. There are quite a few albums but not as many photos in each as I've bombarded you with previously...
Whitsundays to Cairns
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5634965768453676465&authkey=Gv1sRgCOr0urzR557LdQ&feat=email
Hervey Bay and Fraser Island
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5634959869850761153&authkey=Gv1sRgCKPx7b7F-MnFPA&feat=email
Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629011926367179953&authkey=Gv1sRgCJyDhL_80Yz_nAE&feat=email
Brisbane and around
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629009388693376977&authkey=Gv1sRgCImzjKr029y8pwE&feat=email
Moreton Island
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629087405282723985&authkey=Gv1sRgCK_KvMXAt_-bpQE&feat=email
A day at Australia Zoo
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621309915561333153&authkey=Gv1sRgCIPbzuf3na3eXg&feat=email
Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621304888804748273&authkey=Gv1sRgCPzB--zo55b_GQ&feat=email
Sydney
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621268896097200881&authkey=Gv1sRgCIuz566wqofNyAE&feat=email
Whitsundays to Cairns
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5634965768453676465&authkey=Gv1sRgCOr0urzR557LdQ&feat=email
Hervey Bay and Fraser Island
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5634959869850761153&authkey=Gv1sRgCKPx7b7F-MnFPA&feat=email
Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629011926367179953&authkey=Gv1sRgCJyDhL_80Yz_nAE&feat=email
Brisbane and around
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629009388693376977&authkey=Gv1sRgCImzjKr029y8pwE&feat=email
Moreton Island
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5629087405282723985&authkey=Gv1sRgCK_KvMXAt_-bpQE&feat=email
A day at Australia Zoo
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621309915561333153&authkey=Gv1sRgCIPbzuf3na3eXg&feat=email
Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621304888804748273&authkey=Gv1sRgCPzB--zo55b_GQ&feat=email
Sydney
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=carriegoldilocks&target=ALBUM&id=5621268896097200881&authkey=Gv1sRgCIuz566wqofNyAE&feat=email
What a dive
Back in Brisbane now but got a few days of the last part of my travels up the East coast of Australia to cover before moving on to newer pastures (off to New Zealand tomorrow).
So I left you in Townsville after my trip to the Whitsundays and Fraser Island. I headed a bit further up the coast to Mission Beach later that day to stay in the rainforest at an eco retreat with a yoga studio. Well, I just about had the most chilled out days of my life staying there for three nights (apart from all the freaking out at the creepy crawlies and wondering what was lurking outside my cabin in the middle of the night).
I wasn't sure how I was going to get to the retreat without a car as a taxi cost about $40 (more than my depleted budget could take at this stage just for a 15 min journey) but the manager of the resort suggested I try and get one of the other hostels to drop me off close by and then he could come and pick me up. The main building is so remote that you need a 4-wheel drive to get you from the car park to the front door so he had to come and get me from there anyway. So I asked around when I got off the bus and found a friend in the shape of an English guy from another hostel who didn't have any other pick ups and offered to drop me off right at the Sanctuary - a real lifesaver. That's one of the things I love about travelling, the amazingly friendly people and the kindness you get from complete strangers.
Once I arrived I got shown round the place and introduced to my new home for the next few days. I was a little shocked that my humble cabin didn't even have solid walls at first - there was just a thick screen on all four sides and a roof over my head but the views were beautiful and the whole place so peaceful that I took it all in my stride. The main building housed the shared showers and toilets, plus a kitchen with bar and restaurant upstairs. The manager was a really nice guy from Stockport who'd been at the Sanctuary for five years he loved the place so much. As I was on my own he offered to let me join their staff meal that evening at a bargain price and I jumped at the chance, not having brought any food to cook and with no way of getting to the shops while I was there.
I went for a walk through the rainforest to the beach, which took about ten minutes, and was a bit jumpy wondering what creatures I might find lurking in the undergrowth. But I think the cyclone in February of this year has depleted not only the forest but also the animal and insect populations so I didn't get any nasty surprises on my way. The rainforest does look a little odd, missing the dense foliage usually present at the tops of the trunks and from a distance it looks like a mass of naked toothpicks in need of a cover-up.
The beach was rugged and beautiful and mostly deserted being so tucked away from the main part of town. On my last day I spent a few hours there all by myself, which was really strange at first and it took me a while to relax. I don't think I've ever had a beach all to myself before. It was a luxury to whack my ipod on and sing at the top of my voice without fear of being overheard. I felt like I was filming a music video prancing up and down in the surf, singing my heart out! Very therapeutic though.
That evening I met a fantastic lady, Cath, from Melbourne who'd escaped from her husband and kids for a week following the death of a friend she'd nursed in her final few months. We had some really interesting chats and she kindly provided me with breakfast a couple of days. A musician and community arts worker by trade, we shared stories about working in the charitable and public sectors.
The nights were a little more challenging. Although I'd paid for a shared cabin, as it was low season with not many residents, I had the place to myself. Both a help and a hindrance. It was nice to have my own space but it would have been a bit more comforting at night to have had a companion with the sounds of the rainforest and an overactive imagination took over. I wasn't doing too badly until about 2am when I heard a loud rustling outside my cabin and lay there for ages wondering what it might be and if there was any way it could get in. But eventually I dozed off and had a restorative lay in with nothing more to do the next day than to do a bit of yoga in the studio overlooking the rainforest and head back down to the beach.
And that's pretty much how I spent the whole three days. Bliss! I highly recommend it to anyone. But before long it was time to get back on the old bus and head to my final destination - Cairns. Which is pretty much a backpacker party town. But after all my chilling out I didn't feel inclined to join in with all the revelry. But I found a kindred spirit in my room mate, a 60-year-old scouser who was a good crack. So we hung out in the kitchen, headed off to the cinema that evening and the beach on my last day.
But before I wrap up let me tell you about my day of diving on the Great Barrier Reef. A boat trip was the final part of my package that I'd booked through Greyhound and my last opportunity to make up for missing out on all that coral on my last trip to Oz. And make up for it I did indeed. I was nervous about getting the BCD back on again (scuba lingo) but got more excited as we headed out to the reef. Especially as we were quite a select group those of us who were qualified to dive. I felt part of a little exclusive club hopping on board and saying to the crew that I was certified and therefore a little different to the rest.
Once we got in the water it all came back to me and I relaxed into the breathing and pottering around to see what I could see. Saw so many fish and beautiful coral I couldn't even remember them all by the time we returned to the boat to identify them all. It was just stunning and way more impressive than Thailand. Found lots of nemo, stingray, sea cucumbers, fish, fish and more fish. My fellow divers (all three of them) had hired underwater cameras so they were darting about all over the place and getting in everyone's way. Like excitable puppies tripping over themselves to play! But they got some really good shots of all sorts of marine life.
So now it's nearing the end of my final day in Oz. Can't believe it's gone so quickly but then looking back over all my photos today I can't believe I've done so much and been to so many amazing places already. And there's still so much more to see. But it is dawning on my that I'm probably halfway through my trip now and that I've got to make the most of the next few months otherwise before I know it I'll be back home wondering where it all went. I'll be sad to say goodbye to Oz, it has been a real home from home. I've managed to catch up with all the family today and say a proper goodbye, which is great though.
New Zealand here I come...!
So I left you in Townsville after my trip to the Whitsundays and Fraser Island. I headed a bit further up the coast to Mission Beach later that day to stay in the rainforest at an eco retreat with a yoga studio. Well, I just about had the most chilled out days of my life staying there for three nights (apart from all the freaking out at the creepy crawlies and wondering what was lurking outside my cabin in the middle of the night).
I wasn't sure how I was going to get to the retreat without a car as a taxi cost about $40 (more than my depleted budget could take at this stage just for a 15 min journey) but the manager of the resort suggested I try and get one of the other hostels to drop me off close by and then he could come and pick me up. The main building is so remote that you need a 4-wheel drive to get you from the car park to the front door so he had to come and get me from there anyway. So I asked around when I got off the bus and found a friend in the shape of an English guy from another hostel who didn't have any other pick ups and offered to drop me off right at the Sanctuary - a real lifesaver. That's one of the things I love about travelling, the amazingly friendly people and the kindness you get from complete strangers.
Once I arrived I got shown round the place and introduced to my new home for the next few days. I was a little shocked that my humble cabin didn't even have solid walls at first - there was just a thick screen on all four sides and a roof over my head but the views were beautiful and the whole place so peaceful that I took it all in my stride. The main building housed the shared showers and toilets, plus a kitchen with bar and restaurant upstairs. The manager was a really nice guy from Stockport who'd been at the Sanctuary for five years he loved the place so much. As I was on my own he offered to let me join their staff meal that evening at a bargain price and I jumped at the chance, not having brought any food to cook and with no way of getting to the shops while I was there.
I went for a walk through the rainforest to the beach, which took about ten minutes, and was a bit jumpy wondering what creatures I might find lurking in the undergrowth. But I think the cyclone in February of this year has depleted not only the forest but also the animal and insect populations so I didn't get any nasty surprises on my way. The rainforest does look a little odd, missing the dense foliage usually present at the tops of the trunks and from a distance it looks like a mass of naked toothpicks in need of a cover-up.
The beach was rugged and beautiful and mostly deserted being so tucked away from the main part of town. On my last day I spent a few hours there all by myself, which was really strange at first and it took me a while to relax. I don't think I've ever had a beach all to myself before. It was a luxury to whack my ipod on and sing at the top of my voice without fear of being overheard. I felt like I was filming a music video prancing up and down in the surf, singing my heart out! Very therapeutic though.
That evening I met a fantastic lady, Cath, from Melbourne who'd escaped from her husband and kids for a week following the death of a friend she'd nursed in her final few months. We had some really interesting chats and she kindly provided me with breakfast a couple of days. A musician and community arts worker by trade, we shared stories about working in the charitable and public sectors.
The nights were a little more challenging. Although I'd paid for a shared cabin, as it was low season with not many residents, I had the place to myself. Both a help and a hindrance. It was nice to have my own space but it would have been a bit more comforting at night to have had a companion with the sounds of the rainforest and an overactive imagination took over. I wasn't doing too badly until about 2am when I heard a loud rustling outside my cabin and lay there for ages wondering what it might be and if there was any way it could get in. But eventually I dozed off and had a restorative lay in with nothing more to do the next day than to do a bit of yoga in the studio overlooking the rainforest and head back down to the beach.
And that's pretty much how I spent the whole three days. Bliss! I highly recommend it to anyone. But before long it was time to get back on the old bus and head to my final destination - Cairns. Which is pretty much a backpacker party town. But after all my chilling out I didn't feel inclined to join in with all the revelry. But I found a kindred spirit in my room mate, a 60-year-old scouser who was a good crack. So we hung out in the kitchen, headed off to the cinema that evening and the beach on my last day.
But before I wrap up let me tell you about my day of diving on the Great Barrier Reef. A boat trip was the final part of my package that I'd booked through Greyhound and my last opportunity to make up for missing out on all that coral on my last trip to Oz. And make up for it I did indeed. I was nervous about getting the BCD back on again (scuba lingo) but got more excited as we headed out to the reef. Especially as we were quite a select group those of us who were qualified to dive. I felt part of a little exclusive club hopping on board and saying to the crew that I was certified and therefore a little different to the rest.
Once we got in the water it all came back to me and I relaxed into the breathing and pottering around to see what I could see. Saw so many fish and beautiful coral I couldn't even remember them all by the time we returned to the boat to identify them all. It was just stunning and way more impressive than Thailand. Found lots of nemo, stingray, sea cucumbers, fish, fish and more fish. My fellow divers (all three of them) had hired underwater cameras so they were darting about all over the place and getting in everyone's way. Like excitable puppies tripping over themselves to play! But they got some really good shots of all sorts of marine life.
So now it's nearing the end of my final day in Oz. Can't believe it's gone so quickly but then looking back over all my photos today I can't believe I've done so much and been to so many amazing places already. And there's still so much more to see. But it is dawning on my that I'm probably halfway through my trip now and that I've got to make the most of the next few months otherwise before I know it I'll be back home wondering where it all went. I'll be sad to say goodbye to Oz, it has been a real home from home. I've managed to catch up with all the family today and say a proper goodbye, which is great though.
New Zealand here I come...!
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