Meeting the new group for the next couple of weeks has been good. Always good to pepper these periods on my tod with an intense couple of weeks with nowhere to hide! I'd been led to believe that the group would be much older mostly but actually it is pretty evenly mixed with couples both younger and older and also plenty of people around my age, both male and female. They seem like a really good bunch.
I must be getting old or lethargic from too much socialising but I missed out on what sounds like a pretty boozy late night. Some of the younger crowd stayed up until 4am singing karaoke and drinking. They all seemed a bit frazzled this morning. Instead I went to bed about half twelve after a few beers and got up to go to the gym this morning. How virtuous! I feel like I missed out though.
We are leaving Hong Kong today and heading for the Chinese border to experience a sleeper train overnight to Guilin. I'm hoping it's one of those sleek bullet trains that I've heard about (that is China that has those isn't it?) but we'll have to see what we end up with. Quite excited about such a new way to travel. Haven't got any trains so far on my travels apart from the subway.
Yesterday we had a typical sightseeing day covering all the main parts of HK that I've experienced before, albeit a long time ago. Star ferry, Victoria Peak, Stanley Market, a temple (yes, more temples although after a few days off I felt ready to face the Buddha again!). Victoria Peak is a lot more built up than I remember it, there's a whole shopping centre at the top now which I really don't recall.
Everything seems way more expensive than it used to be on the island as well. I went looking for a new SDHC card for my camera and one shop quoted me 760 dollars, which works out about 60 pounds. Ridiculous. Luckily I went to an identical looking shop further down the road and got exactly the same one for about 130 dollars, a massive difference. (And yes, Dad, I did think about the quality but the spec was all the same so I think it was a good deal!).
Our local guide was filling us in on all the info about the Chinese taking over the island on our trip. He seemed pretty pissed about it having grown up here, although now he lives in Buckinghamshire with his family. They are definitely taking over the world with their extreme wealth and lack of manners (according to our guide). Mainlanders come to Hong Kong to give birth so their children will have a passport and free education for 12 years, something they won't get in their own country. They can thank the Brit influence for those perks! And of course they get the freedom to have as many kids as they like here and spend all their money in the designer shops.
He showed us some of the multi-million pound properties in the exclusive areas and the nine-hole golf course with a one million pound membership fee. A huge waiting list for that one so it just goes to show how many filthy rich people hang out here. Property prices have shot up 50-100 per cent over the last two years. Something the girls have reiterated with their tales of having to move home as their landlords have pushed the rent up by unaffordable proportions. Again, you can blame the Chinese for that.
I am looking forward to experiencing mainland China though. Another culture shock coming my way I'm sure. Not sure how accessible the internet is going to be so I may be out of action for a little while. We shall see. Back before too long hopefully. Over and out...
Saturday, 21 May 2011
Tuesday, 17 May 2011
Luscious art and ladyboys
No abuse about the credit card so far then! Thanks guys. It was a cultural day yesterday of extremes I guess you would say. All the best that Bangkok has to offer, depending on your opinion!
Started the day heading over to jim thompson's house, an American art collector who mysteriously disappeared. Beautiful house and grounds in the old, traditional style. Had to restrain myself from buying up half the shop afterwards, a stunning array of silk to behold. Met a really nice English lady, whose name I never got to learn, but we had lunch and I was encouraging her to pack it all in and go travelling! She wanted to hear about all my plans and I gave her some tips on Vietnam.
She recommended a massage place so I headed over there with her to see if they could fit me in. Fantastic massage in a really nice setting. Was stretched and cracked in all the right places. Think my thigh muscles are still suffering after all that cycling, walking and diving!
Then headed off round the monstrous malls of Bangkok. Seriously the recession has clearly never reached these parts. I invested in some underwear as I didn't quite bring enough. I think I should buy all my bras here. Without getting too personal with all you folk, Asia is the best place for smaller-chested ladies. More than a C cup and you're screwed!!
Dan returned from the coast so we headed out for a final farewell tapas in the gay district with squid and sangria. Next we checked out a ladyboy bar, as you should. They didn't really do much except mince around a bit and flick their hair. Then we headed to a swanky rooftop bar for a cocktail and amazing views of the city.
Off to the airport soon to head to hong kong for ladies night with Rachel, Lynda and Ann. Can't wait - it's going to be messy...
Started the day heading over to jim thompson's house, an American art collector who mysteriously disappeared. Beautiful house and grounds in the old, traditional style. Had to restrain myself from buying up half the shop afterwards, a stunning array of silk to behold. Met a really nice English lady, whose name I never got to learn, but we had lunch and I was encouraging her to pack it all in and go travelling! She wanted to hear about all my plans and I gave her some tips on Vietnam.
She recommended a massage place so I headed over there with her to see if they could fit me in. Fantastic massage in a really nice setting. Was stretched and cracked in all the right places. Think my thigh muscles are still suffering after all that cycling, walking and diving!
Then headed off round the monstrous malls of Bangkok. Seriously the recession has clearly never reached these parts. I invested in some underwear as I didn't quite bring enough. I think I should buy all my bras here. Without getting too personal with all you folk, Asia is the best place for smaller-chested ladies. More than a C cup and you're screwed!!
Dan returned from the coast so we headed out for a final farewell tapas in the gay district with squid and sangria. Next we checked out a ladyboy bar, as you should. They didn't really do much except mince around a bit and flick their hair. Then we headed to a swanky rooftop bar for a cocktail and amazing views of the city.
Off to the airport soon to head to hong kong for ladies night with Rachel, Lynda and Ann. Can't wait - it's going to be messy...
Monday, 16 May 2011
Banking on the back up
Ok, now don't have a go at me all at once but I lost my credit card the other night. I'd like to be able to blame nitrogen narcosis (which brings on foolish behaviour) but it was just me being an idiot really. I wasn't drunk and it wasn't late at night either. Though I was pretty shattered after a day's diving. Anyway, I left it in the ATM machine and didn't twig until the following evening when I went to get some more money.
Normally I'd be reduced to tears by something like that but I think this laid-back lifestyle is agreeing with me. I kept my cool and just shrugged my shoulders and did my best to sort it out. I didn't even lose it with Halifax or MasterCard when it all proved a bit too problematic for them to sort their shit out either! Long story but after about six or seven phone calls I think we finally got there. Thank crunchie I managed to get my new current account card before I came away otherwise I'd be totally screwed for a back up.
I was late for our dive video unveiling but I claimed I was on 'Thai time'! There was only one thing for it and that was to get drunk for the evening, which we all did. Went to a few nice bars, had a bit of a boogie and a nice hangover in the morning but it was all good fun. It's been great hanging out with Jazz and the American girls plus a couple of the divemasters over the last few days. I will miss the island and definitely miss the vibe and the beach.
Back in Bangkok now to do some proper sightseeing round the city at last. I think I am now suffering from temple and Buddha fatigue. You've seen ten, you've seen them all. My visit to the grand palace this morning was a little marred by torrential downpours at first but eventually it brightened up.
I'm convinced there was some kind of bad taste party going on at the palace today, one which I clearly wasn't invited to! Several groups of tourists were clad in the worst brightly coloured, patterned and badly clashing outfits I think I've ever seen - en masse! I had to take some photos just to prove it to you but can't upload them yet. Truly terrible, grown men in baggy trousers with elephants plastered all over them...
I do feel a sense of achievement after a day negotiating such a sprawling megalopolis like this, not getting lost with my map reading, not getting sucked in by scanners and overpriced tuk tuk drivers, not getting the ferry the wrong way down the river and managing to make it home in one piece. There's always a sense of nervousness setting out in the morning, wondering what the day will bring, whether you'll make it to all your destinations but when you're back round the pool by four, things couldn't be better!
Normally I'd be reduced to tears by something like that but I think this laid-back lifestyle is agreeing with me. I kept my cool and just shrugged my shoulders and did my best to sort it out. I didn't even lose it with Halifax or MasterCard when it all proved a bit too problematic for them to sort their shit out either! Long story but after about six or seven phone calls I think we finally got there. Thank crunchie I managed to get my new current account card before I came away otherwise I'd be totally screwed for a back up.
I was late for our dive video unveiling but I claimed I was on 'Thai time'! There was only one thing for it and that was to get drunk for the evening, which we all did. Went to a few nice bars, had a bit of a boogie and a nice hangover in the morning but it was all good fun. It's been great hanging out with Jazz and the American girls plus a couple of the divemasters over the last few days. I will miss the island and definitely miss the vibe and the beach.
Back in Bangkok now to do some proper sightseeing round the city at last. I think I am now suffering from temple and Buddha fatigue. You've seen ten, you've seen them all. My visit to the grand palace this morning was a little marred by torrential downpours at first but eventually it brightened up.
I'm convinced there was some kind of bad taste party going on at the palace today, one which I clearly wasn't invited to! Several groups of tourists were clad in the worst brightly coloured, patterned and badly clashing outfits I think I've ever seen - en masse! I had to take some photos just to prove it to you but can't upload them yet. Truly terrible, grown men in baggy trousers with elephants plastered all over them...
I do feel a sense of achievement after a day negotiating such a sprawling megalopolis like this, not getting lost with my map reading, not getting sucked in by scanners and overpriced tuk tuk drivers, not getting the ferry the wrong way down the river and managing to make it home in one piece. There's always a sense of nervousness setting out in the morning, wondering what the day will bring, whether you'll make it to all your destinations but when you're back round the pool by four, things couldn't be better!
Saturday, 14 May 2011
Tested, equipped and qualified
Apologies for not updating for a few days. It's been all go on the scuba front and I'm sure you're all waiting on tenderhooks to hear how it all went! Normal service will now be resumed.
It has been a great few days on Koh Tao. The first night I arrived, after checking into my room I headed to the bar to sample bit of the Crystal Dive nightscene. One of the dive instructors invited me over to join them when he realised I was on my tod, which was really nice. Met a couple of really nice Aussie girls (Sophie and Dee) and their friend Will and after a few beers we headed off to the nearest restaurant to grab a bite to eat. They were doing their Open Water as well but were two days ahead of me. Dee was doing her Rescue qualification as she was already qualified to Advanced level.
The following morning I met the rest of my group (one Brit, two Yanks, two Swiss, all girls except Chris one of the Swiss pair) and my instructor, Nick. Thought Nick was Canadian at first but turns out he is also Swiss but grew up in Africa and went to many American international schools, hence the accent. We had two half days in the classroom, an afternoon in the pool learning our skills, and then two half days diving to complete the course.
Apart from having to flood and empty your mask underwater (I hate that part) all went well in the run up to our first proper dives. I hadn't anticipated the whole having to learn so much and actually pass an exam when I decided to do this, it's a while since I've had to study and pass something but it was all fairly easy. I even mastered the dive planning despite my shady grasp of mathematics!
I have to say that the first dive was a positively surreal experience. Getting used to the lack of peripheral vision in a mask and the constant awareness of your breathing is most bizarre. But once we got into it I really enjoyed it. Lots of fish to look at though the whole 40 minutes went so quickly that it felt like we didn't get much of a chance to take it all in.
The second dive, following an hour back on the boat, was at the same site as the visibility was so good. I struggled a bit more on this one as we had to master some of the skills we learnt in the pool and my ears were giving me grief, unable to equalize all the time, and started hurting quite a lot. A few of us had the same problem.
I was a bit more nervous about the second two dives as a result but was determined to enjoy it. Nick took us to a deep dive site to show us how different an experience it is. Really glad we did as it was amazing, huge schools of fish everywhere you looked, a massive pinnacle in the middle to swim round just covered in anemones, coral and too many creatures to mention. We'd all got the hang of our buoyancy more and saw a massive improvement in our abilities. I struggled to stay with my buddy, Jazz, a bit as she always seemed to be a few metres above, unable to bring herself lower down with her breathing and weights that she was carrying. But we got the hang of it by the final dive.
I'm so glad I did the course, especially as I've been so shit scared of everything that lurks in the deep, dark sea ever since watching Jaws as a kid (let's face it who hasn't!). But I think I've got over that a lot more now. It was tempting to stay on and do the advanced course but decided that money and time didn't really allow. There are plenty of other places on my trip that I can revisit my newfound skills anyway.
The diving world isn't a half bad life really. It's a very macho environment (may I just say that there are some very fit men on the island!) on the boat and the whole post-dive culture but it's also very very laidback and chilled. So many of the divemasters out here came to do the Open Water and have just kept going and never left (or at least gone home to earn some money and come back again).
It has been a great few days on Koh Tao. The first night I arrived, after checking into my room I headed to the bar to sample bit of the Crystal Dive nightscene. One of the dive instructors invited me over to join them when he realised I was on my tod, which was really nice. Met a couple of really nice Aussie girls (Sophie and Dee) and their friend Will and after a few beers we headed off to the nearest restaurant to grab a bite to eat. They were doing their Open Water as well but were two days ahead of me. Dee was doing her Rescue qualification as she was already qualified to Advanced level.
The following morning I met the rest of my group (one Brit, two Yanks, two Swiss, all girls except Chris one of the Swiss pair) and my instructor, Nick. Thought Nick was Canadian at first but turns out he is also Swiss but grew up in Africa and went to many American international schools, hence the accent. We had two half days in the classroom, an afternoon in the pool learning our skills, and then two half days diving to complete the course.
Apart from having to flood and empty your mask underwater (I hate that part) all went well in the run up to our first proper dives. I hadn't anticipated the whole having to learn so much and actually pass an exam when I decided to do this, it's a while since I've had to study and pass something but it was all fairly easy. I even mastered the dive planning despite my shady grasp of mathematics!
I have to say that the first dive was a positively surreal experience. Getting used to the lack of peripheral vision in a mask and the constant awareness of your breathing is most bizarre. But once we got into it I really enjoyed it. Lots of fish to look at though the whole 40 minutes went so quickly that it felt like we didn't get much of a chance to take it all in.
The second dive, following an hour back on the boat, was at the same site as the visibility was so good. I struggled a bit more on this one as we had to master some of the skills we learnt in the pool and my ears were giving me grief, unable to equalize all the time, and started hurting quite a lot. A few of us had the same problem.
I was a bit more nervous about the second two dives as a result but was determined to enjoy it. Nick took us to a deep dive site to show us how different an experience it is. Really glad we did as it was amazing, huge schools of fish everywhere you looked, a massive pinnacle in the middle to swim round just covered in anemones, coral and too many creatures to mention. We'd all got the hang of our buoyancy more and saw a massive improvement in our abilities. I struggled to stay with my buddy, Jazz, a bit as she always seemed to be a few metres above, unable to bring herself lower down with her breathing and weights that she was carrying. But we got the hang of it by the final dive.
I'm so glad I did the course, especially as I've been so shit scared of everything that lurks in the deep, dark sea ever since watching Jaws as a kid (let's face it who hasn't!). But I think I've got over that a lot more now. It was tempting to stay on and do the advanced course but decided that money and time didn't really allow. There are plenty of other places on my trip that I can revisit my newfound skills anyway.
The diving world isn't a half bad life really. It's a very macho environment (may I just say that there are some very fit men on the island!) on the boat and the whole post-dive culture but it's also very very laidback and chilled. So many of the divemasters out here came to do the Open Water and have just kept going and never left (or at least gone home to earn some money and come back again).
Wednesday, 11 May 2011
All set to scuba
Well, I've passed my final exam, the swim and float tests and now I'm off to actually scuba in my first two dives. Totally shitting myself, facing one of my biggest fears but here goes...
Sunday, 8 May 2011
Photos so far
Thailand 1
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/carriegoldilocks/5602061704754686577
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/carriegoldilocks/5602061704754686577
Thailand 2
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/carriegoldilocks/5602437503470855857
Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam 1
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/carriegoldilocks/5602063337185769425
Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam 2
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer?fgl=true&pli=1#album/carriegoldilocks/5602439414119046401
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, 7 May 2011
Dragon descending
The best laid plans and all that! My night out didn't quite happen as I intended. I found the restaurant specialising in a local fish dish but there wasn't a single other person eating in there so I gave it a miss. Goldsworthy rule never to be the only sod in the restaurant!
So I wandered for ages trying to find an alternative. I settled for a crappily touristy restaurant by the lake in the end after getting tired and hungry. Wasn't the best but ho hum. I then couldn't find the jazz club I wanted to go to so those plans got scuppered too. Never mind. I settled for a glass of wine in a bar near my hotel instead.
It was an early start the next morning to head to halong bay (meaning dragon descending). The Vietnamese believe that the limestone rocks that make the area famous were formed by dragons to keep the Chinese from invading. It's a shame halong city is such an eyesore and spoiling things a little but once you get out of the harbour and beyond all the busy boats it really is a breathtakingly beautiful scene.
The weather was very cloudy and foggy but somehow made it more atmospheric with all the thousands of islands in the distance. It didnt make for the best on the photos front though. There were only seven of us on the whole junk, so it was bliss. Met a really nice English couple living in Singapore and an interesting American guy called Steve. We swopped music tips, talked philosophy and laughed about phallic rock formations.
After an hour or two on the boat we got to the 'surprise' cave. It was a bit like a lunar landscape inside and huge. Following that I had the opportunity to redeem myself on the kayaking front (after that poor show in Turkey!). We had a half hour to explore the rocks and sea and steve and I were steaming along, making a good pairing. The calm sea and lack of wind helped this time!
We were late getting back from the trip so it was a quick turnaround then I met steve in a bar for a last-night drink. It was a good finale for my time in Vietnam. A great time was had and I'll miss it. Jen, I still don't understand how you could have possibly hated it so much?!?
Now I'm back in Thailand, staying at dan's condo in Bangkok. I had the place to myself last night and relished the chance to cook myself a meal and have a quiet night in.
Heading back to Koh Tao this evening(overnight bus, that's going to be fun!) to do my scuba diving.
So I wandered for ages trying to find an alternative. I settled for a crappily touristy restaurant by the lake in the end after getting tired and hungry. Wasn't the best but ho hum. I then couldn't find the jazz club I wanted to go to so those plans got scuppered too. Never mind. I settled for a glass of wine in a bar near my hotel instead.
It was an early start the next morning to head to halong bay (meaning dragon descending). The Vietnamese believe that the limestone rocks that make the area famous were formed by dragons to keep the Chinese from invading. It's a shame halong city is such an eyesore and spoiling things a little but once you get out of the harbour and beyond all the busy boats it really is a breathtakingly beautiful scene.
The weather was very cloudy and foggy but somehow made it more atmospheric with all the thousands of islands in the distance. It didnt make for the best on the photos front though. There were only seven of us on the whole junk, so it was bliss. Met a really nice English couple living in Singapore and an interesting American guy called Steve. We swopped music tips, talked philosophy and laughed about phallic rock formations.
After an hour or two on the boat we got to the 'surprise' cave. It was a bit like a lunar landscape inside and huge. Following that I had the opportunity to redeem myself on the kayaking front (after that poor show in Turkey!). We had a half hour to explore the rocks and sea and steve and I were steaming along, making a good pairing. The calm sea and lack of wind helped this time!
We were late getting back from the trip so it was a quick turnaround then I met steve in a bar for a last-night drink. It was a good finale for my time in Vietnam. A great time was had and I'll miss it. Jen, I still don't understand how you could have possibly hated it so much?!?
Now I'm back in Thailand, staying at dan's condo in Bangkok. I had the place to myself last night and relished the chance to cook myself a meal and have a quiet night in.
Heading back to Koh Tao this evening(overnight bus, that's going to be fun!) to do my scuba diving.
Thursday, 5 May 2011
Puppet (not) on a string
Yesterday started out a bit of a flat day. The weather has been a bit gloomy with all these reports of typhoons and it was on and off raining most of the afternoon. Also it was one of those days where things didn't quite turn out how I'd intended. Only on a small scale though so nothing really to complain about.
I'd planned to go to one of the hotels for a bit of a swim and laze around but the temperature had cooled considerably overnight. I daren't say it was 'chilly' but it felt it compared to what it has been. I now understand how people in hot countries can walk around in jeans, jumper and coat when tourists are in shorts and t-shirt now that I've acclimatised for so long. (Can't believe I've been away for a month already.)
So that idea got shelved and I walked to a different part of town to check out the opera house and a few museums. I had a craving for a burger so stopped at a restaurant for lunch but the beef was off the menu so had to settle for chicken (which was delicious but didn't quite fulfil the craving).
I wandered round the Revolution Museum hoping to understand a bit more about the battles with the French and Americans but as with the previous museums I've visited I left just as confused as before I began. A lot of the exhibits have captions in English but the exhibits themselves aren't translated (ie letters, documents) so you lose out on the detail. I was the only person wandering round the place, it felt more like a university where people went to study but it was still a good way to while away some time.
I then searched for ages for a spa that had been recommended by the hotel and Rachel from the group trip. Couldn't find it anywhere despite the map I had and wandered back and forth for ages. It started raining so I stopped for a tea and smoothie to take stock on what to do next. I decided to head off to another spa the hotel had recommended. Before I knew it I'd signed myself up to a near three-hour treatment of coffee and honey body scrub, soak in a petal-strewn tub, delightful massage and rejuvenating facial. They threw in a Pho soup to revive me afterwards! And gave me a jar of some kind of tea but with no explanation of what it was. The whole thing was absolute bliss and the best massage I've had, maybe ever. So that was a good end to the day after all.
I was contemplating moving to one of the backpacker hostels to save some money and try and meet more people. I'm getting a bit bored of my own company this week. But I bottled it in the end and had to upgrade my room at the same hotel. But I've also booked myself a day trip to Halong Bay tomorrow, which I'm really looking forward to. Glad I don't miss out on seeing such seemingly beautiful sights after all.
This morning was spent wandering round town and taking lots of photos of the street scenes. It's mad how they are arranged in this part of the world. You'll stumble across one street full of shoe shops, then another that sells only materials, or kids today, or sellotape and other plastic tape-type paraphernalia. They're all grouped together which is perfect for those who know what they want and need to check out competitive prices. It'll be a long walk with a lengthy shopping list though.
The water puppet show near the lake was a must-see this afternoon. I'd been meaning to go but hadn't got round to buying a ticket at the right time. It was really rather sweet. Developed originally in the rice fields many moons ago as an art form. Some of the movements were quite comical but I'll stop myself from taking the piss here or ruining it by describing how they operate the puppets.
Off out shortly for some local cuisine and might even check out the local jazz club. Ohhhh get me and my cultural day!
I'd planned to go to one of the hotels for a bit of a swim and laze around but the temperature had cooled considerably overnight. I daren't say it was 'chilly' but it felt it compared to what it has been. I now understand how people in hot countries can walk around in jeans, jumper and coat when tourists are in shorts and t-shirt now that I've acclimatised for so long. (Can't believe I've been away for a month already.)
So that idea got shelved and I walked to a different part of town to check out the opera house and a few museums. I had a craving for a burger so stopped at a restaurant for lunch but the beef was off the menu so had to settle for chicken (which was delicious but didn't quite fulfil the craving).
I wandered round the Revolution Museum hoping to understand a bit more about the battles with the French and Americans but as with the previous museums I've visited I left just as confused as before I began. A lot of the exhibits have captions in English but the exhibits themselves aren't translated (ie letters, documents) so you lose out on the detail. I was the only person wandering round the place, it felt more like a university where people went to study but it was still a good way to while away some time.
I then searched for ages for a spa that had been recommended by the hotel and Rachel from the group trip. Couldn't find it anywhere despite the map I had and wandered back and forth for ages. It started raining so I stopped for a tea and smoothie to take stock on what to do next. I decided to head off to another spa the hotel had recommended. Before I knew it I'd signed myself up to a near three-hour treatment of coffee and honey body scrub, soak in a petal-strewn tub, delightful massage and rejuvenating facial. They threw in a Pho soup to revive me afterwards! And gave me a jar of some kind of tea but with no explanation of what it was. The whole thing was absolute bliss and the best massage I've had, maybe ever. So that was a good end to the day after all.
I was contemplating moving to one of the backpacker hostels to save some money and try and meet more people. I'm getting a bit bored of my own company this week. But I bottled it in the end and had to upgrade my room at the same hotel. But I've also booked myself a day trip to Halong Bay tomorrow, which I'm really looking forward to. Glad I don't miss out on seeing such seemingly beautiful sights after all.
This morning was spent wandering round town and taking lots of photos of the street scenes. It's mad how they are arranged in this part of the world. You'll stumble across one street full of shoe shops, then another that sells only materials, or kids today, or sellotape and other plastic tape-type paraphernalia. They're all grouped together which is perfect for those who know what they want and need to check out competitive prices. It'll be a long walk with a lengthy shopping list though.
The water puppet show near the lake was a must-see this afternoon. I'd been meaning to go but hadn't got round to buying a ticket at the right time. It was really rather sweet. Developed originally in the rice fields many moons ago as an art form. Some of the movements were quite comical but I'll stop myself from taking the piss here or ruining it by describing how they operate the puppets.
Off out shortly for some local cuisine and might even check out the local jazz club. Ohhhh get me and my cultural day!
Tuesday, 3 May 2011
Happy Hanoi
I arrived early at the airport yesterday to fly to Hanoi from Ho Chi Minh City. Thought it might take ages in the traffic but it was only about 15 mins and I was there. Which then meant a long wait, my flight wasn't even up on the board at the time I got there. Time flew though and before I knew it I was boarding the Jetstar plane. It was a bit of a knackered old heap, which didn't instill me with much confidence at the time. My seat was stuck in the recline position the whole flight as it had long ago lost the functionality to upright itself by the looks of things.
Apart from a bit of turbulence I made it in one piece. Hanoi turned out to be a much bigger, sprawling city than I imagined but the French-style architecture didn't disappoint. A bit like an old-school South of France in South East Asia. It is just how I thought Saigon was going to be but that ended up much smarter and more metropolitan than I anticipated. These preconceptions make it all the more interesting when they turn out to be wrong!
The hotel that I'm staying in is, I have to say, absolutely fantastic. It's quite small but the staff are amazingly friendly and helpful. You don't even had to ask for your room key as they remember you and everyone falls over themselves to ask how you are or say good morning. When I arrived the reception lady went through absolutely everything on the map and gave me lots of hints and tips about getting around, perfect as a solo stranger in a new city. Unfortunately it looks like my plans to go to Halong Bay or thereabouts may be scuppered by the weather as a typhoon was due to hit last night and it may not be possible to go out on an overnight or two-day boat trip. But hopefully it will move on and I can make it after all, fingers crossed. I'll keep you posted - geddit?!?
I went for a long wander last night and headed to a local cafe for some Pho (noodle soup). Delicious. Hoan Kiem lake is on the edge of the Old Quarter and makes for a beautiful setting at night as well as a major focal point of the city. People are out doing exercise classes, going for romantic walks along the water's edge or doing a spot of shopping. The shops seem pretty fantastic so far and I'm trying to resist the temptation to buy any more than I already have. Popped into a couple of familiar Western shops to remind me of home, which was weird.
Had a quiet night reading my latest book set in Vietnam, The Quiet American by Graham Greene. Seems good so far. The sedate evening meant I was all set for an early start to get the proper sightseeing underway today. I headed off in a taxi after breakfast to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. I hadn't really got my head round the fact that I was actually going to pay my respects to a dead body until I finally entered the building, after snaking around a ridiculously long entry to the mausoleum spreading halfway round the complex. I can see why the Lonely Planet makes a cheeky reference to Madam Tussaud's having the contract to maintain his body as he doesn't look real in any way upon sight. Although I'm sure he moved while I was there! Viewing is all over very quickly as they usher you rapidly through the room.
Next stop was the Temple of Literature, a beautifully ancient Chinese-style building from the 11th century, dedicated to Confucious and later used as a university for the education of mandarins. I stopped for a spot of lunch at the delicious KOTO (know one teach one) restaurant opposite, which is a worthy cause training and helping street kids. The food was amazing and I had the best fruit smoothie I've had so far.
On to the Hoa Lo prison next after a short motorbike taxi ride (a bit hairy but no scrapes thankfully). The prison was used by the French in the war of independence and was pretty grim and sobering. The Vietnamese are clearly very proud of the revolution and their ability to remove both the French and the Americans from their land. Lots of photos showing how many countries around the world objected to the Vietnam war are evident in many of the museums. It's no holds barred on painting others as the enemy (understandably) and what they did to the local people though I had to smile at the propaganda photos showing American pilots putting up a Christmas tree while imprisoned and playing volleyball. I'm sure it wasn't all so rosy.
Back to the Old Quarter later this afternoon for a phenomenal ice cream at Fanny's ice cream parlour. Then a spot of shopping before heading back to the hotel (yes, I succumbed after all).
I've managed a couple of Skype calls to my bezzie mate, Dawesy, and parents over the last couple of days, which has been fantastic and reminded me that everyone is not that far away after all. I got to see them but they didn't get to see me (iPhone 3GS not having a camera on the front) though they were at least spared my frizzy, curly mop in this humidity - something I'm still getting used to...
Apart from a bit of turbulence I made it in one piece. Hanoi turned out to be a much bigger, sprawling city than I imagined but the French-style architecture didn't disappoint. A bit like an old-school South of France in South East Asia. It is just how I thought Saigon was going to be but that ended up much smarter and more metropolitan than I anticipated. These preconceptions make it all the more interesting when they turn out to be wrong!
The hotel that I'm staying in is, I have to say, absolutely fantastic. It's quite small but the staff are amazingly friendly and helpful. You don't even had to ask for your room key as they remember you and everyone falls over themselves to ask how you are or say good morning. When I arrived the reception lady went through absolutely everything on the map and gave me lots of hints and tips about getting around, perfect as a solo stranger in a new city. Unfortunately it looks like my plans to go to Halong Bay or thereabouts may be scuppered by the weather as a typhoon was due to hit last night and it may not be possible to go out on an overnight or two-day boat trip. But hopefully it will move on and I can make it after all, fingers crossed. I'll keep you posted - geddit?!?
I went for a long wander last night and headed to a local cafe for some Pho (noodle soup). Delicious. Hoan Kiem lake is on the edge of the Old Quarter and makes for a beautiful setting at night as well as a major focal point of the city. People are out doing exercise classes, going for romantic walks along the water's edge or doing a spot of shopping. The shops seem pretty fantastic so far and I'm trying to resist the temptation to buy any more than I already have. Popped into a couple of familiar Western shops to remind me of home, which was weird.
Had a quiet night reading my latest book set in Vietnam, The Quiet American by Graham Greene. Seems good so far. The sedate evening meant I was all set for an early start to get the proper sightseeing underway today. I headed off in a taxi after breakfast to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. I hadn't really got my head round the fact that I was actually going to pay my respects to a dead body until I finally entered the building, after snaking around a ridiculously long entry to the mausoleum spreading halfway round the complex. I can see why the Lonely Planet makes a cheeky reference to Madam Tussaud's having the contract to maintain his body as he doesn't look real in any way upon sight. Although I'm sure he moved while I was there! Viewing is all over very quickly as they usher you rapidly through the room.
Next stop was the Temple of Literature, a beautifully ancient Chinese-style building from the 11th century, dedicated to Confucious and later used as a university for the education of mandarins. I stopped for a spot of lunch at the delicious KOTO (know one teach one) restaurant opposite, which is a worthy cause training and helping street kids. The food was amazing and I had the best fruit smoothie I've had so far.
On to the Hoa Lo prison next after a short motorbike taxi ride (a bit hairy but no scrapes thankfully). The prison was used by the French in the war of independence and was pretty grim and sobering. The Vietnamese are clearly very proud of the revolution and their ability to remove both the French and the Americans from their land. Lots of photos showing how many countries around the world objected to the Vietnam war are evident in many of the museums. It's no holds barred on painting others as the enemy (understandably) and what they did to the local people though I had to smile at the propaganda photos showing American pilots putting up a Christmas tree while imprisoned and playing volleyball. I'm sure it wasn't all so rosy.
Back to the Old Quarter later this afternoon for a phenomenal ice cream at Fanny's ice cream parlour. Then a spot of shopping before heading back to the hotel (yes, I succumbed after all).
I've managed a couple of Skype calls to my bezzie mate, Dawesy, and parents over the last couple of days, which has been fantastic and reminded me that everyone is not that far away after all. I got to see them but they didn't get to see me (iPhone 3GS not having a camera on the front) though they were at least spared my frizzy, curly mop in this humidity - something I'm still getting used to...
Sunday, 1 May 2011
Success at the gee gees
After saying goodbye to those who were catching their flights yesterday I took myself back off to bed for a couple of hours for a bit of R&R. Was so utterly exhausted after not really catching up on my sleep since the homestay and having late nights and more booze than I cared for. It was a good restorative sleep with a crappy 80s film on in the background. Didn't realise quite how zombie-like I felt until afterwards.
I headed off back to the Benh Tahn market after going there in the morning and bought a couple of very cheap dresses that will pack nice and small in the old rucksack. No one else was really around for dinner so I headed off on my own to the same restaurant as before, heading past the same spot of the attempted mugging the night before. I clutched my new, more sensible bag extra tight just to be on the safe side but nothing scary to report. Later on I met up with Greg, Chris and his wife at the Acoustic cafe for a spot of live music after Sylvia popped along but didn't stay as she needed some fodder and a good night's kip. The bar was rammed but a good selection of music - western covers as well as some Vietnamese favourites (according to those in the know). I've been missing the live music so it was good to get a bit of a fix.
Relished a lay-in this morning at long last then sorted out my alternative arrangements for the rest of this week. I've changed my itinerary a bit as I'm liking Vietnam so much I fancied staying a bit longer rather than heading back to Thailand so soon. So I've booked a flight to Hanoi tomorrow and hope to head to Halong Bay or Cat Ba Island to see all the amazing limestone rocks and idyllic bays while I'm there.
Then headed out for a spot of breakfast and a wander round the main sights of the palace, museums and opera house, plus the posh shopping district (where I refrained from purchasing). Feel like I've walked miles today but I did get my first bike taxi. It wasn't as scary as I thought and was rather enjoyable.
Met up with Greg and Chris and his wife again today to head over to check out a day at the races in Saigon. Definitely an experience off the tourist trail which was great. I even won one of my bets: result! It was only worth about 87p but who cares when you're victorious. It definitely didn't have the pomp and glamour of going somewhere like Ascot but was a great way to spend the afternoon. Then headed out in the evening for a bit of street food at the market again with the guys and Derek for a final farewell. Definitely feel sad to say goodbye to the last of the crowd. I guess I'm going to have to get used to goodbyes on this trip!
So on to the next phase...
I headed off back to the Benh Tahn market after going there in the morning and bought a couple of very cheap dresses that will pack nice and small in the old rucksack. No one else was really around for dinner so I headed off on my own to the same restaurant as before, heading past the same spot of the attempted mugging the night before. I clutched my new, more sensible bag extra tight just to be on the safe side but nothing scary to report. Later on I met up with Greg, Chris and his wife at the Acoustic cafe for a spot of live music after Sylvia popped along but didn't stay as she needed some fodder and a good night's kip. The bar was rammed but a good selection of music - western covers as well as some Vietnamese favourites (according to those in the know). I've been missing the live music so it was good to get a bit of a fix.
Relished a lay-in this morning at long last then sorted out my alternative arrangements for the rest of this week. I've changed my itinerary a bit as I'm liking Vietnam so much I fancied staying a bit longer rather than heading back to Thailand so soon. So I've booked a flight to Hanoi tomorrow and hope to head to Halong Bay or Cat Ba Island to see all the amazing limestone rocks and idyllic bays while I'm there.
Then headed out for a spot of breakfast and a wander round the main sights of the palace, museums and opera house, plus the posh shopping district (where I refrained from purchasing). Feel like I've walked miles today but I did get my first bike taxi. It wasn't as scary as I thought and was rather enjoyable.
Met up with Greg and Chris and his wife again today to head over to check out a day at the races in Saigon. Definitely an experience off the tourist trail which was great. I even won one of my bets: result! It was only worth about 87p but who cares when you're victorious. It definitely didn't have the pomp and glamour of going somewhere like Ascot but was a great way to spend the afternoon. Then headed out in the evening for a bit of street food at the market again with the guys and Derek for a final farewell. Definitely feel sad to say goodbye to the last of the crowd. I guess I'm going to have to get used to goodbyes on this trip!
So on to the next phase...
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